Ever wonder if that car you love to drive every day, could ever look and drive like the day you purchased it? Ever wonder why the cars on a good previously owned car lot look and smell so good, and yours – well it is just not up to par any more.
The answer could be an auto restoration from a professional who knows what they are doing. Pops Auto Electric of Central Florida has been performing auto restoration for not only classic cars but cars as new as 2010, to make them look and feel like a new car.
With the prices of new cars today, and the increased frequency of lemons, see the GM recall of millions of cars as an example of why you may be better served restoring that reliable car you already own.
Let’s look at how the auto restoration process works and how far Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida can take that car you love, but just needs some TLC to be the car you want it to be. For those of us whose dream cars come from yesterday, we can’t just walk into a car dealership and buy one.
At the same time, buying a used car that’s older can present a whole host of mechanical problems. Is the engine in good shape? How about the transmission and electrical systems? In addition, the upholstery inside and the paint outside may be in questionable condition.
Auto restoration fixes many of these problems, making a good car great. A car which has been in the owner’s possession for years and has been kept well, but has some of these problems is the best candidate for auto restoration. Cars aren’t built to last forever, but restoration can breathe new life into an older vehicle and make it look and run like new. This makes the car more valuable at a sale or auction, guaranteeing its collectable status.
The auto restoration won’t be easy. The job — and its cost — will depend on what car you’ve selected and how much work needs to be done. But if it’s done correctly, auto restoration gives everyday drivers a chance to tool around in a classic automobile as if it had just come off the dealer’s lot the year it was made. Even if a car looks perfect on the outside, if you step inside and the upholstery is torn and the gauges are falling out of the dashboard, the auto restoration job can hardly be considered complete.
A complete interior auto restoration job usually involves completely vacuuming out the car, removing the floor panels and inner door panels, thoroughly cleaning the inside with a solvent or other cleansing solution, taking out the old seats and re-installing the new parts which may have broken piece by piece. A top auto restoration should also carefully clean and restore smaller parts like the glove compartment and sun visors that may be broken or missing.
Luckily, auto restoration doesn’t have to break the bank — that is, if you’re smart about it. Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida knows that door panels sometimes can be saved and restored if the vinyl is undamaged. Chrome spray paint can touch up the chrome trim inside the car. Also, every part doesn’t necessarily need to be ordered brand new.
In fact, many parts in a scrap yard or outsourced to many manufacturers known only to top professionals in the restoration industry. They say first impressions last forever. On any car, the first thing we notice is the way it looks on the outside. If you’re going to go through an auto restoration, with the intent to show it off or just to sell it at an auction or other event, it had better have a top-notch exterior or it won’t get noticed.
Pops Auto Electric of Orlando is shipped cars from around the country because they know all the latest methods of auto restoration are used to make that car look perfect, attract the eyes and have that showroom fresh feel. Think about all of the parts that comprise the outside of a car — door handles, mirrors, the windshield, the gas cap, headlights, taillights, bumpers, hood latches and more. All of these things need to be examined and repaired or replaced as necessary in the auto restoration process.
One of Pops Auto Electric’s specialties is making those dull and yellowed headlight covers, and all the plastic parts on the exterior, look like the day they were manufactured. This is your chance to get a beloved car looking, feeling and driving like the day you brought it home.
Whether you are asking Pops Auto Electric of Orlando to do an auto restoration a 1995 Corvette LT1 to showroom condition, or just wanting auto restoration to make that 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee look as good as it still drives, Pops Auto Electric can handle it. From 2005 Mercedes 550 to 1968 Mustangs, from 2001 Hondas to 1978 Porsche 911, Pops Auto Electric has you covered with the most innovative and complete auto restoration in Florida!
Automotive Headlights; Are Yours a Danger to Others?
Is your car living up to the standards of the road? It is a fact of automobile ownership that certain parts of the car will be taken for granted. These are what can be considered the old reliable. They don’t make any strange noises and the car doesn’t start behaving oddly when problems arise. This does not mean that they are without difficulties which can affect the performance of the vehicle.
Automotive headlights operate ordinarily without much problem, in the past, automotive headlights were made of glass and they either worked or they did not work. Today however, automotive headlights can turn yellow and foggy without you noticing the change.
When automotive headlights turn yellow or become fogged, they are a danger to other cars, pedestrians as well as your family and yourself. In many states, severely yellowed or impaired headlights may main a ticket of up to 250.00 and or license suspension. Automotive headlights are serious business and involve real safety issues in the maintenance of your car.
Why do automotive headlights turn yellow and foggy?
1) Oxidation: This happens due to the polycarbonate lens of modern automotive headlights are exposed to the air. Lenses develop microscopic cracks when exposed to UV radiation causing “cloudiness”.
2) Road Damage: While driving on damaged roads, the small rocks and debris pit the polycarbonate lens of modern automotive headlights. The gravel creates dents and pits on the lenses.
3) Dirt and Chemicals: If a car is on the road for a period of time, it develops a thin layer of dirt and chemicals over the lenses of automotive headlights. This layer is opaque (cloudy) and the affect is to dim the lights or make the automotive headlights hard to see on the road.
4) Water Vapor: Vapor is created inside the automotive headlight “box” due to high moisture content in the air which then gets trapped within the light box as the air outside the light box becomes drier. This water vapor scatters the light coming through the polycarbonate lens and creates patterns and diffusion of light on the road making it hard to see clearly.
Here are some fixes to clean your automotive headlights if they are not too far gone:
Remove the top layer of the automotive headlight lens and clean it with specially sand paper. (this seems easy with kits available in most auto supply stores, but be vary carful, if you do this procedure incorrectly, it can damage the headlights beyond repair)
Polish the headlight lens using headlight polish with a microfiber towel. (this is often presented as a cure all easy fix, but results are varied and temporary)
Time and the environment take their toll
The automotive headlights are external fixtures and this makes them susceptible to any environmental assault. The outside factors are more serious on cars today because the headlights are no longer made of glass. Instead, these fixtures are made of hard plastic that is covered with a clear coat to protect the porous surface.
The destructive elements can be road salt or pollution, but sooner or later the clear coat on the headings is going to start fading away. The summer time in particular can be rough because of the sunlight. Even if there is UV protection on the lenses of automotive headlights, it is good for only so long.
That clear coat finish installed over the lenses of new automotive headlight, also can be affected by the type of cleaning agents used. All of these factors result in the polycarbonate automotive headlight lens of modern cars eventually becoming oxidized and the lights take on a foggy appearance as a consequence. This adds up to a situation where automotive headlights can get worse for wear and need to have some maintenance done on them.
Why the concern?
You may think that this is not anything more than a cosmetic problem, and that conclusion would be more than simply wrong. People don’t seem to notice during the summer time because daylight hours are long, and the folks who live in dry climates may not immediately see a problem. When headlights become foggy yellow and oxidized it affects the light output.
The beam that should come from the automotive headlight is weakened and will not cover as much ground in front of the automobile. That gradually becomes an even more serious problem as the days grow shorter in wintertime. It also is true that in stormy or wintry weather, when vision is naturally reduced, the smaller lighted area is an invitation for accidents.
Preventive ways to avoid headlight problem
There are ways to prevent headlight problems, but you have to be cautious. Be careful about polishing the headlights because it can wear down that clear coat. There should be no grit at all in the polish and the soft polish medium can remove early signs of yellowing. If possible, the car should either be parked in a garage or having the headlights face away from the sun. This prevents the damage that can be caused by ultraviolet light.
If you wish to wash the headlights, it should be done with an automotive soap every quarter. This does have an advantage because the washing can prevent the buildup of acids and dirt that promote the yellowing. Should it appear that the yellowing is too advanced, the old clear coat is going to have to be removed with sandpaper or abrasive cleaner and a new coat of protective film applied.
Prefer a professional to do the work
That standing work ought to be done by a professional. The work can be done by buying a kit from a retail store, but an amateur might make a mistake in sanding the very sensitive and soft polycarbonate surface of automotive headlights. That generates extra cost, which ought to be avoided. The professional can also recommend the right type of clear coat to produce the best results. That professional is Pop’s Auto Electric and AC in Central Florida.
The very top of the automotive headlights turning yellow is not as serious an emergency as worn brake pads or pistons starting to malfunction. In fact, you can drive for weeks without noticing there may be a problem. Taking care of the automotive headlights is not something that should not be put off indefinitely.
Anyone who is driving in a winter storm or a summer thunder storm late at night is aware of the dangers and safety hazard of dim automotive headlights, whether on your car or the one coming at you. This is a time of the year when automotive headlights can be inspected and fixed if necessary.
Any lingering problems can also be corrected without the great sense of urgency. Procrastination does have its price and you have to be aware of it. Making sure that there is no hazy obstruction to the light is simple precaution and safety. It can save you from a nasty accident some dark stormy night. It also it the single most item that makes you car appear old and less valuable.
Finally, when you look at a car in a parking lot, it is has yellow faded automotive headlights, does it look as valuable as the exact same car next to it with bright clear automotive headlights, think about it.
Pops Auto Electric & AC of Orlando Florida Explains Oil Change for Honda Civic
Filter access
First step when you want to do an oil change for Honda Civic with the D16 engine, the oil filter is located on the back side of the engine, beneath the intake manifold, making access difficult from above. The best method to remove the old filter is to use a “cup type” oil filter wrench. Once you have this wrench, it fits the flutes on the end of the filter, use an extension of appropriate length, and a ratchet handle; this assembly is wormed down through the very narrow space between intake manifold and firewall and onto the filter.
4 reasons uninstalling an oil filter for Honda Civic can become complicated:
1) An oil filter has previously been installed which has a different size than the stock Honda filter. Some of the national oil-change chains will often install what they have and make it fit.
2) The oil filter may refuse to be removed may be because of over tightening when installed
3) Too long a time lapse since the last installation of the filter
4) In some cases use of oil leak sealant additives, which can cause the rubber seal on the filter to adhere tightly to the block this is by design, to cause rubber gaskets to seal more tightly and stop an oil leak.
Any of the problems above may give you pause before attempting an oil change for Honda Civic. Many simply do not change the Oil Filter, a very big mistake. We at Pops Auto Electric can quickly, efficiently and at a price that will not break the bank, handle any of these problems. Pops Auto Electric is a full service shop, we are not a chain and we want to help you keep that Honda Civic on the road for many years. When it comes to customizing paint restoration even installing power windows, we will be here to help.
Let’s assume you got the oil filter off and have not stripped the engine attachment threads when doing an oil change for Honda Civic:
Oil Draining Plug
When doing an oil change for Honda Civic the oil drain plug can be a source of problems. The stock plug uses an aluminum crush washer to seal against leaks, which must be torqued fairly tightly (the same system is used on the manual transmission fill and drain plugs). Contrary to occasional practice, the washer should never be reused except as a temporary measure in an emergency, as it then requires even more torque to properly seal. Given the relatively high torque needed to properly seal the plug, it is not unusual for the plug to be over tightened and the threads stripped; luckily, it is usually the plug which is damaged and can be replaced, rather than the more complex process of fixing damaged threads in the oil pan. Some enterprising mechanics substitute a nylon washer, as is sometimes found on other cars, rather than the aluminum washer; the torque required for proper sealing is greatly lessened, but the nylon has a tendency to soften when hot and creep out from under the plug, so that leaks develop over time, particularly in warmer temperatures. One possible solution is to install one of the oil drain valves, available either from Fumoto or Fram. These take the place of the stock drain plug, by threading into the oil pan, and utilize a valve which is turned by hand to drain the engine oil. While tapping the drain hole and installing a larger plug, or installing a self-tapping plug are acceptable, they are not the recommended solution, as these types of plugs tend develop leaks over a short period of time. Also, the metal shavings created by the tap may become suspended in the remaining oil, causing premature engine wear. The proper repair, if the threads for the drain plug in the oil pan become stripped, is to replace the engine oil pan altogether. Simply stated, oil change for Honda Civic is no easy task, it can cause serious damage to the engine if preformed improperly and extra experience to repair the damage you have done. Complications can arise from oil changes preformed by a previous owner, in the best case situation; you need specialized tools and the knowledge that only comes from years of experience.
Call us; we are here to help you with oil change for Honda Civic, with a very special price.
Pops Auto Electric & AC, a full service auto repair shop
What is a “complete” brake job? It is a brake repair job that does not leave important things undone to save time and money. We are talking about things like rebuilding or replacing high mileage calipers and wheel cylinders, replacing disc and drum brake hardware, resurfacing or replacing drums and rotors, changing the brake fluid and bleeding all the lines, checking and adjusting the parking brake and even checking the ABS system.
Overlooking items such as these may have no immediate impact on how the brakes work, but it may at some point down the road. And that can often mean the difference between a brake job that lasts and one that does not last or performs poorly.
Not everybody can afford a comprehensive overhaul of their brake system, and many vehicles don’t need a lot of work. But in instances where additional work can prolong the life of the brake system, improve safety or enhance brake performance, it should be done.
For instance, there’s no need to reline the rear brakes when installing a set of front disc brake pads as long as the rear brakes are in good condition. But if the shoes are marginal or have been contaminated by fluid leaks or grease, they should be replaced — along with any other drum components that are not in acceptable condition. Even if the shoes are still within service limits, you should ask yourself if they’ll last as long as the pads you’re replacing up front. If the shoes don’t have a lot of meat left in them, install new linings on the rear brakes as well.
Whether or not the brake calipers and wheel cylinders need attention also depends on their condition. Any sign of leakage or binding calls for immediate repair or replacement. And even if they’re not leaking, sticking or frozen, you can rebuild or replace these components for preventive maintenance to extend the life of the brake system. Caliper seals harden with age and piston bores corrode. When a piston is shoved back into its bore to accept new thicker pads, seal wear may accelerate if the seals are rubbing against a pitted or corroded surface. This can lead to fluid leakage and contamination of the brake pads.
Brake Repair Precautions
NEVER crawl under an improperly supported vehicle. In other words, never trust a jack alone to hold the vehicle up. Always use a pair of support stands positioned underneath the vehicle to keep it from falling on you. Make sure the weight ratings on the support stands is more than adequate to hold up the vehicle’s weight, too. Do not use blocks of wood, boxes, wheels or bricks for supports because these may slip or collapse and allow the vehicle to fall.
Wear breathing protection (an OSHA-approved mask, not just a cheap dust mask) when removing brake dust. NEVER use an air hose to blow brake dust off brake components. Brake dust may contain asbestos or other fibers that can cause lung disease if inhaled. Use a liquid cleaner to remove brake dust.
Do not open any brake lines or replace any components in a vehicle equipped with an “integral” ABS system (one where the master cylinder is combined with the ABS modulator, pump and pressure accumulator) without first depressurizing the system. This can usually be done by depressing the brake pedal 24 to 40 times while the key is off.
WHERE TO START: BRAKE INSPECTION
Good brakes are absolutely essential for safe driving, so the foundation of a complete brake job begins with a thorough inspection of the entire brake system, including the antilock brake system if the vehicle is so equipped.
On ABS-equipped vehicles, turn the ignition on to verify the ABS warning light circuit works. The ABS light should come on for a few seconds then go out if everything is fine. No light? Then you’ve found a bulb that needs replacing or a wiring problem. If the light comes on and remains on (does not go out), then further diagnosis will be required to find out what’s wrong with the ABS system. For more information about ABS brakes, call Pop’s Auto Electric and AC.
On some ABS systems, faults may have occurred that may not be serious enough to cause a continuous ABS warning light. These may be stored in the ABS module’s memory as “non-latching” or “soft” fault codes. To read ABS codes, you need a scan tool with ABS capability.
Next comes the brake system itself:
Apply the brakes and start the engine. Does the pedal drop slightly? That’s good because it indicates a good vacuum booster. No boost may indicate a leaky booster diaphragm or vacuum connection
How does the brake pedal feel? Is it firm? A soft or mushy-feeling pedal usually indicates air in the lines or leaks. A pedal that slowly sinks is a classic symptom of a worn master cylinder. Is the amount of pedal travel normal? A low pedal may indicate worn linings, the need for adjustment, defective or frozen drum brake adjusters or a low fluid level.
Do the brake lights come on when you step on the pedal? No lights may indicate a defective or misadjusted brake light pedal switch or burned out bulbs in the tail lights.
Apply the parking brake. Does the pedal or handle work smoothly? Is it adjusted properly? Does the brake light come on? No brake warning light may indicate a bad bulb or defective or misadjusted parking brake switch. Does the parking brake hold the vehicle? Put the transmission into gear while the parking brake is applied. If it fails to hold the vehicle, it needs adjusting. Now release the parking brake. Failure to release fully means the linkage or cables need attention.
Open the hood and check the fluid level and its appearance. A low level may indicate a leak or worn linings. Discoloration indicates moisture contamination and the need for a fluid change.
Remove a front wheel and measure the thickness of the brake pads. If worn down to minimum specifications or if wear indicators are making contact with the rotor, new linings are needed. If the pads are still above specs, you might want to replace them anyway if they are near the end of their service life or if they are noisy.
Replacing your old noisy brake pads with ceramic pads can eliminate annoying brake squeal.
Applying a moly-based high temperature brake grease to the backs of the pads
can also help dampen vibrations and noise.
REPLACE BRAKE PADS
Replacement brake pads are available in many different brands and grades. Economy grade or “value” line pads are the least expensive. They are okay for many vehicles, but will not last or provide the same kind of stopping performance as standard grade or premium grade pads. Standard replacement pads are for everyday driving and are a good choice for many applications.
Braking performance and service life should be similar to the original equipment pads. Premium pads (ceramic or semi-metallic) are usually recommended for vehicles where wear or noise has been a problem, or for hard-use, high temperature applications. Ceramic pads are also low dusting, so they are a good upgrade if you drive a European vehicle and you don’t like to see black brake dust on your wheels.
Because of the different friction characteristics of different kinds and brands of brake pads, you should replace same with same, or better.
If your car came originally equipped with non-asbestos organic (NAO) pads, you should look for replacement pads that are NAO. Or you could upgrade to ceramic pads for longer life and quieter braking, or even semi-metallic pads for high temperature, hard use driving.
If your car came originally equipped with ceramic pads (which are found on many late model cars), you should buy some brand of aftermarket ceramic pad. Likewise, if you drive a large SUV that is equipped with semi-metallic pads, you should replace them with an aftermarket quality brand of semi-metallic pads.
When you remove the old pads, look for uneven wear. If the inner or outer pad shows much more wear than its companion, the caliper may be sticking. This should be fixed before the new pads are installed.
Also check the old pads for any sign of contamination (brake fluid, oil or grease). If the caliper is leaking brake fluid, it must be rebuilt or replaced before new pads are installed. The same goes for a leaky wheel cylinder in a rear drum brake. Oil or grease can come from a leaky wheel bearing or axle seal.
Before you can install the new pads, the caliper piston(s) must be pushed back into the caliper to make room for the new pads (which will be thicker than the old worn pads). A large C-clamp can be used for this purpose.
When the new pads are installed, make sure they fit snugly in the caliper mount. If any mounting shims, springs or anti-rattle clips are badly corroded or missing, install new mounting hardware. Also inspect the caliper bushings, pins and slides for damage, wear or severe corrosion. Replace as needed.
ROTOR CHECKS
Also note the condition of the rotors. Deep scratches or grooves indicate a need for resurfacing. Are there discolored spots, heat cracks or warpage? These may also indicate a need for rotor resurfacing or replacement.
Rotor runout can be measured by placing a dial indicator against the face of the rotor and turning the rotor. If runout exceeds specifications, corrective measures are needed.
Measure runout and parallelism, too. As a general rule, the rotors on most cars and trucks should have less than .003 inches of runout, and some cars cannot tolerate any more than .0015 inches of runout. If runout is higher than this, it might be corrected by reindexing the position of the rotor on the hub (Note: hub runout should also be checked, resurfacing the rotors on the vehicle with an on-car lathe, or by installing tapered shims behind the rotors.)
Note the condition of the calipers and caliper mounts. Also note whether or not the pads are worn evenly. Uneven pad wear can be caused by corrosion on the caliper mounting guides or keyway.
Pull a drum and inspect the drum surface, brake shoes, hardware and wheel cylinder. If the shoe linings are at, or below minimum specifications, new shoes are needed. If the linings are still above minimum specs but are getting thin, new shoes should be recommended to extend the life of the brakes.
Check everywhere for leaks: the master cylinder, proportioning valve, steel brake lines and rubber hoses, and ABS components if so equipped. Have a helper apply the brakes while you look underneath. Rubber hoses should not expand under pressure. Any hoses that are chaffed, cracked or swell under pressure need to be replaced.
Any leak is a potential safety hazard because loss of fluid can mean loss of stopping power. If you discover a leak, do not postpone repairs because leaks create a potentially dangerous situation.
MINIMIZING BRAKE NOISE
That brings us to the problem of noise, which seems to be an especially troublesome problem these days for many vehicles. Another aspect of the complete brake job is doing everything you can to minimize noise.
Anything that causes or increases vibration amplifies brake noise. This includes excessive runout or roughness on the face of the rotors, glazed linings, loose pads, even rusted, worn or loose caliper mounts.
Resurfacing the rotors may therefore be necessary to reduce pad vibration. You might also install pad shims or insulators to dampen vibrations between the pads and calipers and new caliper mounting hardware to prevent problems here, too. Brake grease can also be applied to the backs of the pads to dampen noise.
BRAKE ROTOR RESURFACING
Rotor resurfacing is not necessary when the pads are replaced provided the rotors are in reasonably good condition (within acceptable runout, parallelism and wear specs). Even so, there are valid reasons for having the rotors resurfaced.
If a rotor is close to the OEM minimum thickness specification or cannot be resurfaced without exceeding the spec, then the rotor is near the end of its useful service life and replacement is recommended. If the rotor is at or below the minimum thickness specification, it must be replaced.
Worn rotors are dangerous rotors for three important reasons:
Worn rotors have less mass and are therefore less able to absorb and dissipate heat. This can elevate brake temperatures, which may lead to fading under hard use. Pad wear will also be accelerated.
Worn rotors are weak rotors. If not replaced, they may wear down to the point where they cause brake failure.
Worn rotors increase the distance the caliper piston(s) have to travel when the brakes are applied. If the distance is too great, there’s a danger of fluid leakage or the piston sticking.
Another reason for resurfacing rotors is if lateral runout or wobble exceeds OEM specs. You can attempt to reindex the rotor, but the best solution is to resurface the rotor on the vehicle with an on-car lathe. The lathe will cut the rotor true to the caliper mount or hub (depending upon how the equipment is mounted).
Resurfacing may also be needed if parallelism between the rotor faces exceeds OEM specs (generally about .0005 in.). If the rotor is warped or has hard spots, it will have to be resurfaced or replaced.
Hard spots that develop from overheating or uneven torquing of lug nuts can create raised areas on the surface that often extend below the surface. The metallurgical changes in the rotor will often cause the hard spots to return after a few thousand miles, so rotor replacement might be the best repair recommendation.
Regardless of the type of rotor resurfacing equipment used, always remove the least amount of metal necessary to restore the rotor surface. This will maximize rotor life. After turning the rotor on a lathe, some technicians will buff both sides of the rotor with a Flex Tool or sand the rotors with #120 to #150 grit sandpaper with moderate to heavy force for 60 seconds on each side to create a smooth, nondirectional or crosshatch finish. This is done to minimize the risk of noise with semimetallic pads.
REPLACING BRAKE HARDWARE
A complete brake job may also include new hardware. When replacing brake shoes, pay close attention to the condition of the hardware — especially the all-important return springs. Over time, heat weakens the springs and reduces their ability to pull the shoes back from the drum when the brakes are released. The brakes may begin to drag, causing shoe wear to accelerate and fuel economy to take a noticeable dip.
As the springs continue to age, they get weaker, stretch and may eventually break. MAP says there’s no reason to replace the springs unless they are obviously stretched, heat discolored, broken or damaged. But because of the risks associated with reusing high mileage springs and mounting hardware, you should install new return springs and other brake hardware — especially if the vehicle has a lot of miles on it.
If a parking brake cable is badly corroded and needs replacing, replace both cables to minimize the risk of future problems.
And don’t forget the wheel bearings. The greasable variety in older rear-wheel drive vehicles need to be cleaned, inspected, repacked with fresh grease, reinstalled with new seals and adjusted to specs. The sealed variety should be inspected for excessive play or roughness. If either type are not in acceptable condition, they need to be replaced.
Be sure to lubricate the shoe support pads on the drum backing plates with brake lubricant (never ordinary chassis grease). Also, lubricate the parking brake mechanism.
BLEED THE BRAKES
A complete brake repair job also includes fresh brake fluid. Bleeding is necessary for two reasons:
To remove air bubbles that may have entered the system while repairs were being made because of a leak or a brake fluid level that got too low. The air must be removed because it is compressible and can prevent a full, firm pedal.
To remove moisture contamination.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and contributes to internal corrosion.
Changing the fluid periodically (every two years or when the brakes are relined) for preventive maintenance rids the brake system of unwanted moisture, restores the fluid’s boiling temperature and prolongs the life of the hydraulic components by minimizing the potential for internal corrosion. This can be an especially important consideration on vehicles equipped with antilock brakes (ABS) because of the high replacement cost of the hydraulic modulator assembly.
FINISHING THE BRAKE REPAIR JO
When you’ve completed your brake repair, pump the brake pedal several times to confirm the pedal is firm before moving or driving the vehicle. If this is not done, the pedal may go to the floor and the brakes may be unable to stop the vehicle!
Do a short test drive at slow speed to confirm the brakes are working properly. The pedal should feel firm, the brakes should apply without pulling or grabbing, and you should hear no noise.
30/30/30 BRAKE PAD BURNISHING PROCEDURE
Perform 30 stops from 30 miles per hour with a 30-second cooling interval between stops. These stops will be performed at a decelerating rate of 12 feet per second or less. This means that it should be a gentle easy stop.
The 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure beds the pads and shoes into the rotor and drums. It also deposits the necessary friction transfer to the rotors and drums for optimum brake performance.
Do NOT go out and slam on the brakes as hard as you can. This can glaze the pads resulting in brake noise and reduced stopping performance. Take it easy on the brakes the first couple hundred miles of driving.
If the pedal feels soft or spongy, there may be air trapped in the brake lines. You should bleed the brake lines again to remove the air. If the pedal has too much travel, the self-adjusters inside the drums may need to be readjusted to reduce the clearance between the shoes and drums.
If the brakes pull or grab, a caliper may be sticking or there may be oil, grease or brake fluid on the pads or rotors. Inspect and clean as needed.
Complete brake repair job services are available from the experts at Pops Auto Electric and AC. Pop’s has certified brake experts and guarantee to meet or beat any brake repair quote from a legitimate auto service center. Give Pops Auto Electric and AC a call for all your auto repair needs, but epically if you hear any of the symptoms discussed above, don’t gamble with your families lives, call today:
Power brake boosters
Emergency / parking brake
Anti lock, disc and drum brakes
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the brake system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those brakes!
Brake System Repair & Maintenance; What is the Process
Simply put, brakes are what make your car stop and. More importantly, your brakes help keep you, your family, and everyone around you safe. Proper brake system repair and maintenance of your automotive braking system will help you avoid accidents as well as costly repairs. Additionally, you should have your brake system checked every time you have your tires rotated and brake system repair handled by certified professionals when needed.
Here are some warning signs that you need to have your brakes serviced:
A high pitched squealing sound.
This is a safety feature on modern brakes to let you know the pads are wearing thin and need to be replaced. A sure sign that you need brake system repair work before things get worse.
Sounds of grinding metal.
This means that the pads have been completely worn out and need to be replaced immediately to avoid damage to other parts of the brake system. This is a sign that you need brake system repair, and you need attention quickly or you will destroy your rotors, a much more expensive brake system repair process.
Lowered responsiveness and fading.
Air in the brakes lines or leaking fluid will cause the brakes to “catch” with the pedal closer to the floorboard.
Vibration and pulsations when braking.
This can be caused by warped rotors or the tires being out of balance. When rotors are warped, the brake pads cannot fully grip and braking will not be as effective. Brake system repair or maintenance is recommended as soon as possible.
Pulling to one side.
This can be caused by the brakes on one side not gripping as firmly as the other or from debris in the brake lines.
Parking brake sticks.
This is an indication the brakes are not fully disengaging and can cause extra wear on your rear brakes. Brake system repair is recommended before the situation worsens, brakes are one thing on your car you can not ignore.
Pop’s Auto Electric and AC technicians are trained and certified in brake system repair, service, inspection and maintenance of the following:
All hydraulic components including lines, hoses, cylinders and calipers
Brake fluid checked for age and containments
Rotors and drums inspected for thickness and damage
Power brake boosters
Emergency / parking brake
Anti lock, disc and drum brakes
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the brake system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those brakes!
Make Your Aging Auto Look New Again; Pop’s Auto Electric in Orlando Helps with Black to Black or Gray Bumper Restoration
The Process Works on Window Rubber and Trim Just as Well!
Are your car’s bumpers fading to gray, even though you are still making payments? Do you need to get the bumpers and trim on your car back to black? Have they faded to a horrible dull grey color? With so many different products on the market which is the best way to get them back to that deep back to black showroom blackness?
It can be very confusing, you’ve probably seen reference to them all; Protectants and restorative products, detailing products and bumper dressings, all designed to transform the look of your car bumpers and car trim back to black. But no matter how many of these products you try, they never work the way the package promises.
The problem with many of these products is that they make your trim look great on first application but will only tend to last a matter of weeks before they fade away and you then have to re-apply to get that car back to black look again.
So what causes the fading problem in the first place and how do you find a more permanent fix to you faded bumpers? The main cause of fading is bleaching from the sun’s UV ray. Many of the car back to black products available will therefore also contain chemicals and conditioners that provide additional protection from these UV rays, but again if they are not giving a longer term fix to the initial fading then they are mainly only preventing further dulling of the grayness.
Best Long Lasting Car Back to Black Products
From the hundreds of car back to black products available on the market there are only a handful that really provide more permanent, longer term solution. These actually bring long-lasting deep showroom blackness back to your faded bumpers and trim. But these are only available commercially and need to be professionally applied. Many of the dealers that do the applications are very expensive and the application needs time to “Cure”.
Pop’s Auto Electric can apply the commercial products quickly and inexpensively, giving your car a new appearance, and do the job while you are in for a tune up or AC repair. Few respected full service auto repair shops have full detailing facilities, but Pops Auto Electric in Orlando Florida is one that does.
To get the deep black color that you desire when doing it yourself, the steps you need to follow for true back to black results are really very simple and straight forward:
1) Simply remove all dirt and grease from your bumpers and trim
2) Ensure the parts to be re-colored are dry
3) Using either a supplied applicator or a sponge applicator pad, evenly apply a coating of your chosen product across the surface or your bumper or other trim.
The problem with the do it yourself back to black products is the effect is short lived, but if you want to try it, the process is just that simple.
You may find that with some older cars, ones with extreme sun bleaching that a second coat may be required one the first has dried but providing no dirt or grease has been allowed to settle on it then it’s simply a case of directly applying on top of the first coat. However if dirt or dust of any kind has settled on the bumper it will be a mess, like lacquer when dust or dirt falls on the surface before it fully dries. If the job is done at Pops Auto Electric in Orlando, this is never a problem getting back to black.
And it’s not just bumpers that these products can be used on, depending on your choice back to black results can also be seen on rubber parts and hoses, door handles, side trim, mud guards, interior plastic trim, running boards and even some soft-tops! If the job is done at Pop’s Auto Electric, you can simply request which parts you want restored professionally, to that showroom look.
So if your trim is looking a little faded hopefully the above will help you in your choice of products to help get the bumpers and other parts on your car back to black again. Hopefully, if you are like me and want the look going back to black but not the work, you call Pop’s Auto Electric and get a showroom look, it really makes you proud of that aging car, and its fast and easy, why not call today!
Seem complicated, we can help. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible. Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
Checking Auto AC System for Freon Levels and Problems In Orlando Florida
There are many parts to an Auto AC System, and here in Florida the Auto AC System is in use 365 days a year. In Orlando Florida Pops Auto Electric is the most reliable place to get your Auto AC System repaired quickly, correctly and at a reasonable rate. We are going to offer a series of blogs on the different parts of an Auto AC System that can go wrong.
The first area of concern, and the easiest fix is low Freon, but be aware, low Freon can be a symptom, and if you don’t know what you are doing, you can seriously damage other parts of you Auto AC System, cause more work and expense than to have a professional do it in the first place.
That said, here is everything you need to know to check your Freon, and charge the system like a pro. Please note that we suggest professional equipment for this job, and remind you that using inexpensive cans from discount stores, may seriously damage your Auto AC System.
Step 1: Freon check
You will need a set of professional manifold gauges to check you Freon pressure.
Here are some general guideline for Auto AC System pressures and temperatures based on ambient outside temperature. Remember that these are a guideline and your actual Auto AC System temperatures and pressures will vary depending on humidity in the air and the condition of your Auto AC System. When running the car at idle to check the Freon level it is a good idea to have a water hose handy and spray water on the Auto AC System condenser. The condenser is located in front of the radiator.
For vehicles currently running with Freon R-134a only
Outside—–low side——-High side——Center vent temp
60 F —–28-38 psi—-130-190 psi —-44-46 F
70 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-44-48 F
80 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-43-48 F
90 F ——35-40 psi —190-225 psi —-44-50 F
100 F —–40-50 psi —200-250 psi —-52-60 F
110 F —–50-60 psi —250-300 psi —-68-74 F
120 F —–55-65 psi —320-350 psi —-70-75 F
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You can also use this good rule of thumb with R134a, run fan on High with all windows open and engine at 1500 rpm. High side pressure in PSI should be about 2.2 to 2.5 times outside air temperature in degrees F. Example if it’s 90 degrees F, high side should be no higher than 225PSI
Above is a useful trouble shooting chart for an Auto AC System currently running on Freon R-134a
Trouble shooting
Low Compressor Discharge Pressure
1. Leak in Auto AC System
2. Defective expansion valve
3. Suction valve closed
4. Freon shortage
5. Plugged receiver drier
6. Compressor suction valve leaking
7. Bad reed valves in compressor
Repair
1. Repair leak in Auto AC System
2. Replace valve
3. Open valve
4. Add Freon
5. Replace drier
6. Replace valve
7. Replace reed valves
High Compressor Discharge Pressure
1.Air in Auto AC System
2. Clogged condenser
3. Discharge valve closed
4. Overcharged system
5. Insufficient condenser air
6. Loose fan belt
7. Condenser not centered on fan or too far from radiator
Repair
1. Recharge Auto AC System
2. Clean condenser
3. Open valve
4. Remove some refrigerant
5. Install large fan
6. Tighten fan belt
7. Center and check distance
Low Suction Pressure
1. Refrigerant shortage in Auto AC System
2. Worn compressor piston
3. Compressor head gasket leaking
4. Kinked or flattened hose
5. Compressor suction valve leaking
6. Moisture in system
7. Trash in expansion valve or screen
Repair
1. Add refrigerant to Auto AC System
2. Replace compressor
3. Replace head gasket
4. Replace hose
5. Change valve plate
6. Replace drier
7. Replace drier
High Suction Pressure
1. Loose expansion valve on Auto AC System
2. Overcharged system
3. Expansion valve stuck open
4. Compressor reed valves
5. Leaking head gasket on compressor
Repair
1. Tighten valve on auto AC System
2. Remove some refrigerant
3. Replace expansion valve
4. Replace reed valves
5. Replace head gasket
Compressor Not Working
1. Broken belt that operates Auto AC System
2. Broken clutch wire or no 12v power
3. Broken compressor piston
4. Bad thermostat
5. Bad clutch coil
6. Low Refrigerant – low pressure switch has cut off clutch power
Repair
1. Replace belt on Auto AC System
2. Repair wire or check for power
3. Replace compressor
4. Replace thermostat
5. Replace clutch coil
6. Add refrigerant
Evaporator Not Cooling
1. Frozen coil, switch set too highon Auto AC System
2. Drive belt slipping
3. Hot air leaks into car
4. Plugged receiver drier
5. Capillary tube broken
6. Shortage of refrigerant
7. High head pressure
8. Low suction pressure
9. High suction pressure
10. Defective expansion valve
11. Frozen expansion valve
Repair
1. Turn thermostat switch back on Auto AC System
2. Tighten belt
3. Check for holes or open vents
4. Replace drier
5. Replace expansion valve
6. Add refrigerant
7. See problem #2
8. See problem #3
9. See problem #4
10. Replace expansion valve
11. Evacuate and replace drier
Frozen Evaporator Coil
1. Faulty thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Thermostat not set properly
3. Insufficient evaporator air
Repair
1. Replace thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Set to driving condition
3. Check for excessive duct hose length, kink or bend.
If you can’t get your Auto AC System to turn on then use this chart to determine if you are low on Freon. Remember that this is a general char and will vary for different makes and model cars and refrigeration units
Auto AC Basics; How does Auto AC Work, How do I Know if all is Well?
Summer is around the corner, is your auto AC working properly? The first thing to understand about auto AC basics, before attempting “easy fixes” from the retail giants, is how auto AC works, and how you might be able to fix or improve Auto AC performance.
Part 1: Understanding Auto AC Basics; Car Air Conditioning
It is important to realize that auto AC basics is based on a refrigerator in a different layout. It’s designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, the following explanations of auto AC should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be. This should also help you work with the right pieces if fixing it yourself or it will help you to talk intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
•Compressor:
This compresses is another basic part of auto AC basics and circulates the refrigerant in the system of the auto AC •Refrigerant: On modern cars, this is usually a substance called R-134a, while older cars have r-12 Freon in the auto AC, which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, Freon also requires a license to handle. The refrigerant carries the heat.
•Condenser:
The condenser is part of auto AC basics that changes the phase of the refrigerant from gas to liquid and expels heat removed from the car through the auto AC.
•Expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles):
This part of auto AC basics is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to simultaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it within the auto AC. •Evaporator: This transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, which is a vital part of the auto AC in cooling your car.
•Receiver/dryer: This functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants from the auto AC system. Understand the air conditioning process of you auto AC is much the same as any refrigerant process. In a nutshell, the compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant in the auto AC system is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the “latent heat of vaporization”). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve in the auto AC system to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car’s blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle within the auto AC again and again.
Part 2 of Auto AC Basics: Fixing the auto AC
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out of your auto AC (meaning there’s nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling the auto AC system apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there’s a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Another part of auto AC basics; find the low-side valve for the auto AC and with a special gauge check the PSI level.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Do not use anything else to poke in the auto AC valve to see if coolant will come out, this is illegal and one of the auto AC basics. It’s called venting. Make sure the compressor is turning.
•Start the car, turn on the auto AC and look under the hood. The auto AC compressor is generally a pump-like thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire, this is part of auto AC basics and will be similar on every car. The pulley on the front of the auto AC compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged.
•If the auto AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor’s clutch is not engaging, you have run into one of the auto AC basics. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem (see Pops Auto Electric on Auto Electric Repair), a broken auto AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn’t enough refrigerant in the auto AC system). Look for other things that can go wrong. The other sorts of problems that the auto AC might be experiencing include: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure in the auto AC and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, complete with instructions.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Auto AC basics; do not overfill the auto AC coolant! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will not improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance in real-time as it adds refrigerant. When the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant from the auto AC until the performance peaks again.
Tips
•Auto AC basics; if you suspect bad wiring, most compressors have a wire leading to the electric clutch. Find the connector in the middle of that wire, and unplug it. Take a length of wire and run it from the compressor’s wire to the plus (+) side of your battery. If you hear a loud CLACK, the electric clutch for the auto AC is fine and you should check the car’s wiring and fuses. If you get nothing, the electric clutch is bad and the auto AC compressor will have to be replaced. Ideally, if you can do this test while the car is running, you can see if the hub spins. Take care to keep fingers and loose clothes away from moving pulleys and belts. That would rule out an auto AC clutch that actuates properly but then slips so badly it won’t generate pressure.
•Auto AC basics 2; the auto AC system will have a light oil in it. •If your car has an auto AC, leak even though the drain pipe is clean, some water may have entered the AC system during a drive through rain.
•Another possible replacement refrigerant is HC12a which is used quite a bit more in Europe. This is another one of the auto AC basics as It performs better than R-134a or R12. It is more flammable. HC12a is illegal in many U.S. states, including Arkansas, Arizona, Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Iowa, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Washington, Wisconsin, and the District of Columbia. HC12a has a lesser environmental impact than R12 or R134a, but since HC12a contains hydrocarbons, it could contribute to volatile organic compound (VOC) emissions. This substance must be ordered on the Internet as local shops do not seem to stock it. The issue is that shops will not work on a car that has other refrigerants in it. Special equipment is needed for each type of refrigerant’s recovery. Standard R12 or R134a is a safer choice for any auto AC system.
•Sometimes the problem is not always about the refrigerant, or any of the auto AC basics. There may be a problem with heat radiation from nearby engine which is very hot and decrease the AC efficiency and performance. You can try to wrap / isolate the cold auto AC pipe near the engine to stop engine heat radiation from affecting the pipe and increase auto ac performance overall. Seem complicated, we can help. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix the auto AC basics and the more critical problems as well. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem with auto AC basics, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible.
Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida
407-857-8579
If you feel you have the expertise to continue repairing your auto AC basics yourself; we do feel we must list the following warnings:
Warnings
•You may not find a repair facility that will simply not top off the auto AC basics system, if they suspect that you need to repair a leak first. If you repaired the leaks and failed components yourself, it is legal to recharge the auto AC basics system with 134 without a license, but not R-12. However, getting a license to handle R-12 is easy online, and runs about $20.)
•Look out for moving fan blades and fan belts!
•If you have any reason to suspect that your auto AC refrigerant has leaked out completely (the auto AC DIY pressure gauge you bought at the parts store reads 0 psi; the compressor won’t engage because it may be sensing no pressure in the system; you checked the gauge and have no PSI level), then you are best off taking it to a professional unless you are familiar with what you are doing. As a general rule of thumb, you are probably not familiar enough if you are reading this article. The reason for this is that a completely depleted auto AC basics refrigerant system has no pressure to keep air and moisture from coming in through wherever the refrigerant leaked out. Air and moisture are possibly the two biggest enemies of an auto AC system. The ways in which they can do harm are outside the scope of this article, but suffice it to say that it is not okay to have a significant amount of either air or moisture in the auto AC lines. The receiver/dryer unit must be replaced in a case like this as you can almost guarantee that it has absorbed enough moisture to be completely useless, and before refilling the system it must be evacuated (pulling a vacuum on the system, effectively removing nearly all air and moisture from inside) with the proper equipment, which few auto AC Dyers are likely to have access or knowledge to use. Let a professional handle it, and you may get away with paying for a fixed leak and an evacuate/recharge of the auto AC system. Try to fix the auto AC yourself, and a few months down the road you might wind up having to pay for the same evacuate/recharge service, plus replacement of a seized compressor, as well as a new condenser, evaporator, and expansion valve/orifice tube because the compressor sent shards of metal throughout the entire auto AC basics system when the compressor died.
•HC12 and R-134A are non-flammable auto AC fluids at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure, but both may combust at high pressure and temperature under certain conditions (in contact with certain reactive metals), again, part of auto AC basics. Both also displace oxygen, so do not release a lot of the gas in a small, non-vented area under penalty of asphyxiation.
•Stay away from major leaks of refrigerant. As it vents the auto AC system, it will get cold enough to freeze your skin, resulting in frostbite, this is another of the auto AC basics. •Never connect auto AC refrigerant cans, oil or leak-detector cans to the “high pressure side” of the system, part of auto AC basics. This is often marked with H or HIGH, or a red connector cap. Cans can explode, and that would hurt. •Checking for refrigerant leaking from the auto AC system by poking something in the fitting and looking for venting may be illegal if it releases refrigerant into the atmosphere. (Please don’t do this with R-12 especially!) While it is not illegal to top off a leaking system, you must check your local regulations, as in some cases there is a state or local law against it, due to the possible emissions. Venting auto AC refrigerant, even R-134a, is illegal in the United States, so act accordingly, this is law regarding auto AC basics. •Be extremely cautious about converting your old R-12 auto AC system to R-134a. The R-134a conversion kits sold at Auto Parts stores and even Walmart, are called “Black Death Kits” by some auto AC repairmen. Frequently part of auto AC basics, the new R-134a refrigerant will not circulate the R-12 oil and you will burn up your compressor. The R-12 mineral oil has chlorine contaminants that will destroy the R-134a PAG or POE special oil. The only way to reliably convert auto AC from R-12 to R-134a is to remove the compressor and flush out all the old oil with the new type of oil; then replace the old Receiver-Dryer or Accumulator with a new one; then flush out all the lines, the evaporator, and the auto AC condenser with special cleaner then vacuum to a steady vacuum; and finally charge with 70-80%, (by weight) of the original R-12 weight, with R-134a; and expect poorer cooling ability. It is much easier to keep the old R-12 auto AC system running with R-12 that is readily available via eBay. You must have a license to buy and sell R-12, again auto AC basics.
◦Note that the above warning is controversial. Some repairmen claim to have converted hundreds of vehicles from R-12 to R134a without any problems or issues or failures after conversion.
Seem complicated, we can help with all the auto AC basics and beyond. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible. Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
An auto electric relay is an electromechanical or electronic device through which a heavy load can be switched ON & OFF with a nominal input of current & voltage.
How does a relay work?
A heavy electrical load drawing heavy current can be switched on & off by applying a small amount of current through a coil (solenoid). The coil gets magnetized with the current and attracts or repels a plunger (a rod passed through the coil). The attracting or repelling of the plunger either connects two switching contacts in the auto electric relay (also known as NO or Normally Open/Single Throw/Form A) or separates them (NC or Normally Closed/Double Throw/Form C), as required. As soon as the electric source to the coil is stopped, the electro magnet ceases to function and the main contacts go back to their original position. In automobile applications, relays of different configurations with single or multiple contacts are used for different applications.
Why is an auto electric relay required?
Apart from switching a circuit with heavy load, on & off, a relay is required to 1. Conserve energy 2. Prolong the life of device 3. Improve the efficiency of a device. For example let us take the switching of two headlamps of an automobile. If the same is switched on through a normal switch at the dashboard, the voltage drop from the battery to the lamps through the switch will be enormous and the heat generated in the circuit due to resistance will be considerable. The heavy current will be drawn by the lamps which will not only heat the circuit but also drain the battery heavily.
To give an example of the effect of voltage drop, a chart is given below:
Operating Voltage. Luminous Intensity of a Lamp. 100% 100% 95% 83% 90% 67% 85% 53% To switch on a 12V-60/100 Watt Halogen lamp, a typical 12V Relay allows a voltage drop of only 0.02V and the coil current is only 2 milliamps. Another important function of the auto electric relay is quick switching off (0.05Sec Max.). The more time the contacts of a switch take to break at full load, the more spark will be generated due to the electromagnetic effect on contacts in a switched on state. Prolonged sparking will mean more wear of the contact points and the danger of contacts melting and generating a fire. International standards have very stringent auto electric relay specifications. The endurance of a relay is generally specified in millions of switching operations.
Where should an auto electric relay be installed?
Wherever manual switching has been used for direct switching of a Lamp or Motor or any gadget exceeding 10 Amps of load, a suitable relay must be put in the circuit. It is best if the relay can be kept as near as possible to the load (but not in a hot area surrounding near the engine) Some examples of auto electric relay use may be relays used between the owner operated window switch and the actual motor that moves the window up and down. Another example would be using an auto electric relay between the computer and the radiator fan or the A/C compressor. Also between the computer and the door locks, when the computer is programmed to lock the doors when the car goes in a forward gear.
How should a relay be installed?
1. Wires connected to the manual switch should be connected to any Coil terminal of the auto electric relay. 2. The load should be connected to any one contact terminal of the auto electric relay (unless Positive/Negative are specified) and the other to the positive terminal of the battery (for Negative Ground circuit), with an appropriate Fuse. There is an easier way to fix auto electric problems. Call Pops Auto Electric in Central Florida, they have been handling the hardest and most complicated auto electric problems for many years and they are the acknowledged experts in the field. Many other shops and dealerships come to Pops Auto Electric when a really complicated electrical problem arises, because they are the best around. Auto electric relay problems are a snap with Pops Auto Electric, call today:
Call Pops Auto Electric now and put your mind at ease!
407-857-8579
Contact Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC 4704 S. Orange Ave Orlando, FL 32806
