Ever wonder if that car you love to drive every day, could ever look and drive like the day you purchased it? Ever wonder why the cars on a good previously owned car lot look and smell so good, and yours – well it is just not up to par any more.
The answer could be an auto restoration from a professional who knows what they are doing. Pops Auto Electric of Central Florida has been performing auto restoration for not only classic cars but cars as new as 2010, to make them look and feel like a new car.
With the prices of new cars today, and the increased frequency of lemons, see the GM recall of millions of cars as an example of why you may be better served restoring that reliable car you already own.
Let’s look at how the auto restoration process works and how far Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida can take that car you love, but just needs some TLC to be the car you want it to be. For those of us whose dream cars come from yesterday, we can’t just walk into a car dealership and buy one.
At the same time, buying a used car that’s older can present a whole host of mechanical problems. Is the engine in good shape? How about the transmission and electrical systems? In addition, the upholstery inside and the paint outside may be in questionable condition.
Auto restoration fixes many of these problems, making a good car great. A car which has been in the owner’s possession for years and has been kept well, but has some of these problems is the best candidate for auto restoration. Cars aren’t built to last forever, but restoration can breathe new life into an older vehicle and make it look and run like new. This makes the car more valuable at a sale or auction, guaranteeing its collectable status.
The auto restoration won’t be easy. The job — and its cost — will depend on what car you’ve selected and how much work needs to be done. But if it’s done correctly, auto restoration gives everyday drivers a chance to tool around in a classic automobile as if it had just come off the dealer’s lot the year it was made. Even if a car looks perfect on the outside, if you step inside and the upholstery is torn and the gauges are falling out of the dashboard, the auto restoration job can hardly be considered complete.
A complete interior auto restoration job usually involves completely vacuuming out the car, removing the floor panels and inner door panels, thoroughly cleaning the inside with a solvent or other cleansing solution, taking out the old seats and re-installing the new parts which may have broken piece by piece. A top auto restoration should also carefully clean and restore smaller parts like the glove compartment and sun visors that may be broken or missing.
Luckily, auto restoration doesn’t have to break the bank — that is, if you’re smart about it. Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida knows that door panels sometimes can be saved and restored if the vinyl is undamaged. Chrome spray paint can touch up the chrome trim inside the car. Also, every part doesn’t necessarily need to be ordered brand new.
In fact, many parts in a scrap yard or outsourced to many manufacturers known only to top professionals in the restoration industry. They say first impressions last forever. On any car, the first thing we notice is the way it looks on the outside. If you’re going to go through an auto restoration, with the intent to show it off or just to sell it at an auction or other event, it had better have a top-notch exterior or it won’t get noticed.
Pops Auto Electric of Orlando is shipped cars from around the country because they know all the latest methods of auto restoration are used to make that car look perfect, attract the eyes and have that showroom fresh feel. Think about all of the parts that comprise the outside of a car — door handles, mirrors, the windshield, the gas cap, headlights, taillights, bumpers, hood latches and more. All of these things need to be examined and repaired or replaced as necessary in the auto restoration process.
One of Pops Auto Electric’s specialties is making those dull and yellowed headlight covers, and all the plastic parts on the exterior, look like the day they were manufactured. This is your chance to get a beloved car looking, feeling and driving like the day you brought it home.
Whether you are asking Pops Auto Electric of Orlando to do an auto restoration a 1995 Corvette LT1 to showroom condition, or just wanting auto restoration to make that 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee look as good as it still drives, Pops Auto Electric can handle it. From 2005 Mercedes 550 to 1968 Mustangs, from 2001 Hondas to 1978 Porsche 911, Pops Auto Electric has you covered with the most innovative and complete auto restoration in Florida!
Automotive Headlights; Are Yours a Danger to Others?
Is your car living up to the standards of the road? It is a fact of automobile ownership that certain parts of the car will be taken for granted. These are what can be considered the old reliable. They don’t make any strange noises and the car doesn’t start behaving oddly when problems arise. This does not mean that they are without difficulties which can affect the performance of the vehicle.
Automotive headlights operate ordinarily without much problem, in the past, automotive headlights were made of glass and they either worked or they did not work. Today however, automotive headlights can turn yellow and foggy without you noticing the change.
When automotive headlights turn yellow or become fogged, they are a danger to other cars, pedestrians as well as your family and yourself. In many states, severely yellowed or impaired headlights may main a ticket of up to 250.00 and or license suspension. Automotive headlights are serious business and involve real safety issues in the maintenance of your car.
Why do automotive headlights turn yellow and foggy?
1) Oxidation: This happens due to the polycarbonate lens of modern automotive headlights are exposed to the air. Lenses develop microscopic cracks when exposed to UV radiation causing “cloudiness”.
2) Road Damage: While driving on damaged roads, the small rocks and debris pit the polycarbonate lens of modern automotive headlights. The gravel creates dents and pits on the lenses.
3) Dirt and Chemicals: If a car is on the road for a period of time, it develops a thin layer of dirt and chemicals over the lenses of automotive headlights. This layer is opaque (cloudy) and the affect is to dim the lights or make the automotive headlights hard to see on the road.
4) Water Vapor: Vapor is created inside the automotive headlight “box” due to high moisture content in the air which then gets trapped within the light box as the air outside the light box becomes drier. This water vapor scatters the light coming through the polycarbonate lens and creates patterns and diffusion of light on the road making it hard to see clearly.
Here are some fixes to clean your automotive headlights if they are not too far gone:
Remove the top layer of the automotive headlight lens and clean it with specially sand paper. (this seems easy with kits available in most auto supply stores, but be vary carful, if you do this procedure incorrectly, it can damage the headlights beyond repair)
Polish the headlight lens using headlight polish with a microfiber towel. (this is often presented as a cure all easy fix, but results are varied and temporary)
Time and the environment take their toll
The automotive headlights are external fixtures and this makes them susceptible to any environmental assault. The outside factors are more serious on cars today because the headlights are no longer made of glass. Instead, these fixtures are made of hard plastic that is covered with a clear coat to protect the porous surface.
The destructive elements can be road salt or pollution, but sooner or later the clear coat on the headings is going to start fading away. The summer time in particular can be rough because of the sunlight. Even if there is UV protection on the lenses of automotive headlights, it is good for only so long.
That clear coat finish installed over the lenses of new automotive headlight, also can be affected by the type of cleaning agents used. All of these factors result in the polycarbonate automotive headlight lens of modern cars eventually becoming oxidized and the lights take on a foggy appearance as a consequence. This adds up to a situation where automotive headlights can get worse for wear and need to have some maintenance done on them.
Why the concern?
You may think that this is not anything more than a cosmetic problem, and that conclusion would be more than simply wrong. People don’t seem to notice during the summer time because daylight hours are long, and the folks who live in dry climates may not immediately see a problem. When headlights become foggy yellow and oxidized it affects the light output.
The beam that should come from the automotive headlight is weakened and will not cover as much ground in front of the automobile. That gradually becomes an even more serious problem as the days grow shorter in wintertime. It also is true that in stormy or wintry weather, when vision is naturally reduced, the smaller lighted area is an invitation for accidents.
Preventive ways to avoid headlight problem
There are ways to prevent headlight problems, but you have to be cautious. Be careful about polishing the headlights because it can wear down that clear coat. There should be no grit at all in the polish and the soft polish medium can remove early signs of yellowing. If possible, the car should either be parked in a garage or having the headlights face away from the sun. This prevents the damage that can be caused by ultraviolet light.
If you wish to wash the headlights, it should be done with an automotive soap every quarter. This does have an advantage because the washing can prevent the buildup of acids and dirt that promote the yellowing. Should it appear that the yellowing is too advanced, the old clear coat is going to have to be removed with sandpaper or abrasive cleaner and a new coat of protective film applied.
Prefer a professional to do the work
That standing work ought to be done by a professional. The work can be done by buying a kit from a retail store, but an amateur might make a mistake in sanding the very sensitive and soft polycarbonate surface of automotive headlights. That generates extra cost, which ought to be avoided. The professional can also recommend the right type of clear coat to produce the best results. That professional is Pop’s Auto Electric and AC in Central Florida.
The very top of the automotive headlights turning yellow is not as serious an emergency as worn brake pads or pistons starting to malfunction. In fact, you can drive for weeks without noticing there may be a problem. Taking care of the automotive headlights is not something that should not be put off indefinitely.
Anyone who is driving in a winter storm or a summer thunder storm late at night is aware of the dangers and safety hazard of dim automotive headlights, whether on your car or the one coming at you. This is a time of the year when automotive headlights can be inspected and fixed if necessary.
Any lingering problems can also be corrected without the great sense of urgency. Procrastination does have its price and you have to be aware of it. Making sure that there is no hazy obstruction to the light is simple precaution and safety. It can save you from a nasty accident some dark stormy night. It also it the single most item that makes you car appear old and less valuable.
Finally, when you look at a car in a parking lot, it is has yellow faded automotive headlights, does it look as valuable as the exact same car next to it with bright clear automotive headlights, think about it.
Pops Auto Electric & AC of Orlando Florida Explains Oil Change for Honda Civic
Filter access
First step when you want to do an oil change for Honda Civic with the D16 engine, the oil filter is located on the back side of the engine, beneath the intake manifold, making access difficult from above. The best method to remove the old filter is to use a “cup type” oil filter wrench. Once you have this wrench, it fits the flutes on the end of the filter, use an extension of appropriate length, and a ratchet handle; this assembly is wormed down through the very narrow space between intake manifold and firewall and onto the filter.
4 reasons uninstalling an oil filter for Honda Civic can become complicated:
1) An oil filter has previously been installed which has a different size than the stock Honda filter. Some of the national oil-change chains will often install what they have and make it fit.
2) The oil filter may refuse to be removed may be because of over tightening when installed
3) Too long a time lapse since the last installation of the filter
4) In some cases use of oil leak sealant additives, which can cause the rubber seal on the filter to adhere tightly to the block this is by design, to cause rubber gaskets to seal more tightly and stop an oil leak.
Any of the problems above may give you pause before attempting an oil change for Honda Civic. Many simply do not change the Oil Filter, a very big mistake. We at Pops Auto Electric can quickly, efficiently and at a price that will not break the bank, handle any of these problems. Pops Auto Electric is a full service shop, we are not a chain and we want to help you keep that Honda Civic on the road for many years. When it comes to customizing paint restoration even installing power windows, we will be here to help.
Let’s assume you got the oil filter off and have not stripped the engine attachment threads when doing an oil change for Honda Civic:
Oil Draining Plug
When doing an oil change for Honda Civic the oil drain plug can be a source of problems. The stock plug uses an aluminum crush washer to seal against leaks, which must be torqued fairly tightly (the same system is used on the manual transmission fill and drain plugs). Contrary to occasional practice, the washer should never be reused except as a temporary measure in an emergency, as it then requires even more torque to properly seal. Given the relatively high torque needed to properly seal the plug, it is not unusual for the plug to be over tightened and the threads stripped; luckily, it is usually the plug which is damaged and can be replaced, rather than the more complex process of fixing damaged threads in the oil pan. Some enterprising mechanics substitute a nylon washer, as is sometimes found on other cars, rather than the aluminum washer; the torque required for proper sealing is greatly lessened, but the nylon has a tendency to soften when hot and creep out from under the plug, so that leaks develop over time, particularly in warmer temperatures. One possible solution is to install one of the oil drain valves, available either from Fumoto or Fram. These take the place of the stock drain plug, by threading into the oil pan, and utilize a valve which is turned by hand to drain the engine oil. While tapping the drain hole and installing a larger plug, or installing a self-tapping plug are acceptable, they are not the recommended solution, as these types of plugs tend develop leaks over a short period of time. Also, the metal shavings created by the tap may become suspended in the remaining oil, causing premature engine wear. The proper repair, if the threads for the drain plug in the oil pan become stripped, is to replace the engine oil pan altogether. Simply stated, oil change for Honda Civic is no easy task, it can cause serious damage to the engine if preformed improperly and extra experience to repair the damage you have done. Complications can arise from oil changes preformed by a previous owner, in the best case situation; you need specialized tools and the knowledge that only comes from years of experience.
Call us; we are here to help you with oil change for Honda Civic, with a very special price.
Pops Auto Electric & AC, a full service auto repair shop
Symptoms and Common Problems of an Automotive Air Conditioning System
In Florida, A broken automotive air conditioning system can be almost as bad as not having a car in the first place. Yet another hot, humid Florida summer is suddenly upon us and we can’t put off automotive air conditioning system problems another day. Suddenly having an automotive air conditioning system that works, and works well, is of the utmost importance to your very existence. It is almost imposable to arrive at a meeting, the mall, or a friend’s house sweating and flushed by stale, hot car air, and in Central Florida, downright unhealthy!
Having an automotive air conditioner system that works only part way may get by in a northern city with 3 months of hot weather, but faulty air conditioners can cause bigger damage to your car down the road if left unattended in an area with a full 8 months of truly hot weather.
An air conditioner running low on Freon, on dirty coolant or on faulty electrical wiring can end up ruining the entire air conditioning compressor (much more expensive than a simple recharge or flush). An automotive air conditioning systems are connected to the rest of the vehicle’s electrical system, meaning a surge or problem with the air conditioner can cause problems with the rest of the car, causing poor idling, fuel inefficiencies or drained batteries, or much worse – prematurely spent alternator and serpentine belt.
Generally, automotive air conditioning systems are fast, easy and inexpensive to repair if handled correctly with the right equipment or by a professional with the same. Most automotive air conditioning system problems are coolant-related, and may often be as simple as getting a coolant flush, refill or fixed leak. Do not be fooled by the “you can fix the leak yourself” cans available at your local Wal-Mart and Big Lots, you will more than likely destroy your compressor, do not use these products!
With that said, your automotive air conditioning system is not one of those devices most technicians recommend fixing at home anyway, unless you’re a qualified mechanic. Most do-it-yourself instructions for fixing broken auto air conditioners contain scary phrases, like “it is illegal to release Freon gas into the atmosphere” and “be sure to wear proper hand and eye protection”. Plus, there are many different things that could be wrong with the car’s air conditioning system, which if handled by a professional could be a simple fix, yet handled wrong could turn into a repair costing literally thousands.
Pop’s Auto Electric and AC has compiled a list of most often found problems associated with automotive air conditioning systems:
1) Coolant and/or Refrigerant Leaks:
This generally applies to older, less computerized vehicles. Refrigerant can run out on its own over the course of time, or leaks may have developed in the car’s AC compressor or one of its hoses. If your vehicle has never had a coolant flush or refill and it’s pushing 75,000 miles or more, you need a coolant flush and ac tune up.
2) Noisy AC Compressor:
Noises that occur when your car’s AC is turned on can come from minor engine noises or hoses, but they could also be symptoms of problems with the compressor. If the problem is the AC compressor, it will likely have to be replaced. If you do not have the noise looked at and it turns out to be a faulty compressor, what could have been just a compressor replacement, can turn into a whole system replacement as pieces of the disintegrating compressor are spread throughout the entire automotive air conditioning system, if it is to completely come apart.
3) Fluctuating Temperatures:
When a car’s AC blows out air with sporadic temperatures, it’s often likely that moisture is building up in one of the hoses or assemblies, causing ice to accumulate and clog. Removing ice from a car’s air conditioning assembly is a short and easy procedure. Delaying this repair, can damage the dryer, compressor and lead to much higher repair cost.
4) Faulty Car Electrical System:
pops auto and electric
A weak car battery can cause your auto air conditioner to function weakly or not at all. Car batteries need to have enough voltage to trigger the AC compressor, and while it may be strong enough to run the rest of your car, it may still be too weak to run your car’s air conditioning. Electric is one of Pop’s Auto Electric & AC’s particular specialties, no problem with this one!
5) Bacteria Buildup:
Funky smells emanating from your automotive air conditioning system vents are likely caused by a bacteria buildup in the evaporator. Pops Auto Electric & AC will have the proper tools to flush the evaporator out quickly and without much cost. Your car will smell clean and fresh again without that pine sent thing, we like to make you smile!
So what are some basic ways to tell if any of these are a problem for your car’s air conditioning unit? Here’s a basic checklist of symptoms which indicate something is wrong with your auto AC:
If the AC system doesn’t produce cold air
If the fan or blower doesn’t work
If the fan, blower or AC is noisy when turned on
If one of the dashboard controls malfunctions
If the vent, car heater or defroster are having problems working correctly
If the air conditioning smells funny
If the car has a tendency to overheat
If the air filter or dryer have not been replaced, or if the AC has never been serviced and the car is over 75,000 miles old
If one of these symptoms applies to your automotive air conditioning system, it’s probably time to have it inspected by a qualified mechanic at Pop’s Auto Electric & AC here in Central Florida. Caught early, most auto air conditioning problems are fairly easy and inexpensive to fix. It is worth the trip to come to an honest mechanic, a shop that specializes in automotive air conditioning systems and has a good on line reputation is your best bet; don’t take chances and beat the heat!
Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
Pops Auto Electric Explains the Effects of Resistance in an Auto Electric System
Resistance (R) in the Ohm’s law equation is what the electricity works against in an electrical circuit. Resistance is measured in ohms (Ω). Resistance can come in many forms, some good, some not so good.
Every electrical circuit needs some form of resistance. If not, you have a short circuit, and we know what happens if we have one of those. Resistance can be as simple as a light bulb or as complex as a PCM. Both create a certain amount of resistance that is accounted for in its circuit.
A few key things can affect resistance:
One is heat; the higher the temperature, the higher the resistance. The reason for this is that a heated substance has a lot of molecular movement, which affects electron flow. The harder it is for electrons to flow, the more resistance you have. That’s the layman’s definition of resistance.
Distance can also affect resistance; the longer a wire is, the more resistance it has. Think back to our car with a tank of gas. We’re going to use more gas the farther we have to travel to get back to the negative battery post. The size or amount of conductive material that the electricity passes through can also affect resistance. A wide-open path with a very conductive material has little resistance. Conversely, a small wire with a not-so-conductive material has more resistance.
The takeaway here is that resistance can be good or bad depending on where you find it. You need the resistance of the load of an electric circuit in order for the circuit to function, but if you have unwanted resistance, the circuit will not function as intended.
Testing Resistance
Checking a circuit’s resistance over a voltage drop test can be risky for an amateur. The main reason is because when you’re doing a voltage drop test, you get to see what’s happening on a live circuit. Resistance checks are done on open circuits that are isolated from the rest of the circuit.
When doing resistance checks, you must remove what you’re checking from the circuit first in order to do your resistance check; otherwise, you might damage the circuit or your meter. It’s for that reason that resistance tests are found to be inconclusive sometimes. Sure, there are times when testing resistance is the only way to test a circuit within the auto electric system, but when diagnosing a problem in a circuit, a voltage drop test is best for the amateur.
Case in point: ignition coil testing. Manufacturers list the resistance that should be seen at the primary and secondary windings of an ignition coil. It is difficult at best to find a bad ignition coil this way.
Electrical engineers have found a coil can have good resistance readings and still be bad. The reason for this is that the windings inside the coil are made of very thin wire. You can have a small break in this wire and the resistance will still indicate everything is fine, but the minute the coil is under load, it fails because of the open or short in the windings.
On the other hand, if checking a coolant temp sensor, resistance testing is the way to go. Be sure to use resistance checks wisely when trying to find the effects of resistance in an auto electric system. Why not call Pop’s Auto Electric and solve auto electric system problem with the industry experts. There is a reason that other shops send electrical problems to Pop’s Auto Electric.
This works for every electrical circuit according to Ohm’s law. Once you know the circuit, you know where the gas (voltage) is going and you can measure it at different points in the circuit to get a good idea of how the circuit is operating.
One last example that might give you some practical insight: Say you have an electrical connector with some corrosion in it. You can’t see the corrosion, but you suspect it’s there. You can take a voltage reading before and after the connector to check the voltage drop across the connector. You should see close to zero volts. If you see a higher voltage than expected, you’ve found increased resistance in the circuit.
Voltage drop testing is your best friend when it comes to diagnosing automotive electric circuits. At Pop’s Auto Electric, we are experts in all forms of voltage testing. In fact local shops call us to trace, diagnose and fix difficult automotive electrical problems. Call Pop’s Auto Electric today for a free estimate.
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the automotive electric system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those problems now!
Contact Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
What is a “complete” brake job? It is a brake repair job that does not leave important things undone to save time and money. We are talking about things like rebuilding or replacing high mileage calipers and wheel cylinders, replacing disc and drum brake hardware, resurfacing or replacing drums and rotors, changing the brake fluid and bleeding all the lines, checking and adjusting the parking brake and even checking the ABS system.
Overlooking items such as these may have no immediate impact on how the brakes work, but it may at some point down the road. And that can often mean the difference between a brake job that lasts and one that does not last or performs poorly.
Not everybody can afford a comprehensive overhaul of their brake system, and many vehicles don’t need a lot of work. But in instances where additional work can prolong the life of the brake system, improve safety or enhance brake performance, it should be done.
For instance, there’s no need to reline the rear brakes when installing a set of front disc brake pads as long as the rear brakes are in good condition. But if the shoes are marginal or have been contaminated by fluid leaks or grease, they should be replaced — along with any other drum components that are not in acceptable condition. Even if the shoes are still within service limits, you should ask yourself if they’ll last as long as the pads you’re replacing up front. If the shoes don’t have a lot of meat left in them, install new linings on the rear brakes as well.
Whether or not the brake calipers and wheel cylinders need attention also depends on their condition. Any sign of leakage or binding calls for immediate repair or replacement. And even if they’re not leaking, sticking or frozen, you can rebuild or replace these components for preventive maintenance to extend the life of the brake system. Caliper seals harden with age and piston bores corrode. When a piston is shoved back into its bore to accept new thicker pads, seal wear may accelerate if the seals are rubbing against a pitted or corroded surface. This can lead to fluid leakage and contamination of the brake pads.
Brake Repair Precautions
NEVER crawl under an improperly supported vehicle. In other words, never trust a jack alone to hold the vehicle up. Always use a pair of support stands positioned underneath the vehicle to keep it from falling on you. Make sure the weight ratings on the support stands is more than adequate to hold up the vehicle’s weight, too. Do not use blocks of wood, boxes, wheels or bricks for supports because these may slip or collapse and allow the vehicle to fall.
Wear breathing protection (an OSHA-approved mask, not just a cheap dust mask) when removing brake dust. NEVER use an air hose to blow brake dust off brake components. Brake dust may contain asbestos or other fibers that can cause lung disease if inhaled. Use a liquid cleaner to remove brake dust.
Do not open any brake lines or replace any components in a vehicle equipped with an “integral” ABS system (one where the master cylinder is combined with the ABS modulator, pump and pressure accumulator) without first depressurizing the system. This can usually be done by depressing the brake pedal 24 to 40 times while the key is off.
WHERE TO START: BRAKE INSPECTION
Good brakes are absolutely essential for safe driving, so the foundation of a complete brake job begins with a thorough inspection of the entire brake system, including the antilock brake system if the vehicle is so equipped.
On ABS-equipped vehicles, turn the ignition on to verify the ABS warning light circuit works. The ABS light should come on for a few seconds then go out if everything is fine. No light? Then you’ve found a bulb that needs replacing or a wiring problem. If the light comes on and remains on (does not go out), then further diagnosis will be required to find out what’s wrong with the ABS system. For more information about ABS brakes, call Pop’s Auto Electric and AC.
On some ABS systems, faults may have occurred that may not be serious enough to cause a continuous ABS warning light. These may be stored in the ABS module’s memory as “non-latching” or “soft” fault codes. To read ABS codes, you need a scan tool with ABS capability.
Next comes the brake system itself:
Apply the brakes and start the engine. Does the pedal drop slightly? That’s good because it indicates a good vacuum booster. No boost may indicate a leaky booster diaphragm or vacuum connection
How does the brake pedal feel? Is it firm? A soft or mushy-feeling pedal usually indicates air in the lines or leaks. A pedal that slowly sinks is a classic symptom of a worn master cylinder. Is the amount of pedal travel normal? A low pedal may indicate worn linings, the need for adjustment, defective or frozen drum brake adjusters or a low fluid level.
Do the brake lights come on when you step on the pedal? No lights may indicate a defective or misadjusted brake light pedal switch or burned out bulbs in the tail lights.
Apply the parking brake. Does the pedal or handle work smoothly? Is it adjusted properly? Does the brake light come on? No brake warning light may indicate a bad bulb or defective or misadjusted parking brake switch. Does the parking brake hold the vehicle? Put the transmission into gear while the parking brake is applied. If it fails to hold the vehicle, it needs adjusting. Now release the parking brake. Failure to release fully means the linkage or cables need attention.
Open the hood and check the fluid level and its appearance. A low level may indicate a leak or worn linings. Discoloration indicates moisture contamination and the need for a fluid change.
Remove a front wheel and measure the thickness of the brake pads. If worn down to minimum specifications or if wear indicators are making contact with the rotor, new linings are needed. If the pads are still above specs, you might want to replace them anyway if they are near the end of their service life or if they are noisy.
Replacing your old noisy brake pads with ceramic pads can eliminate annoying brake squeal.
Applying a moly-based high temperature brake grease to the backs of the pads
can also help dampen vibrations and noise.
REPLACE BRAKE PADS
Replacement brake pads are available in many different brands and grades. Economy grade or “value” line pads are the least expensive. They are okay for many vehicles, but will not last or provide the same kind of stopping performance as standard grade or premium grade pads. Standard replacement pads are for everyday driving and are a good choice for many applications.
Braking performance and service life should be similar to the original equipment pads. Premium pads (ceramic or semi-metallic) are usually recommended for vehicles where wear or noise has been a problem, or for hard-use, high temperature applications. Ceramic pads are also low dusting, so they are a good upgrade if you drive a European vehicle and you don’t like to see black brake dust on your wheels.
Because of the different friction characteristics of different kinds and brands of brake pads, you should replace same with same, or better.
If your car came originally equipped with non-asbestos organic (NAO) pads, you should look for replacement pads that are NAO. Or you could upgrade to ceramic pads for longer life and quieter braking, or even semi-metallic pads for high temperature, hard use driving.
If your car came originally equipped with ceramic pads (which are found on many late model cars), you should buy some brand of aftermarket ceramic pad. Likewise, if you drive a large SUV that is equipped with semi-metallic pads, you should replace them with an aftermarket quality brand of semi-metallic pads.
When you remove the old pads, look for uneven wear. If the inner or outer pad shows much more wear than its companion, the caliper may be sticking. This should be fixed before the new pads are installed.
Also check the old pads for any sign of contamination (brake fluid, oil or grease). If the caliper is leaking brake fluid, it must be rebuilt or replaced before new pads are installed. The same goes for a leaky wheel cylinder in a rear drum brake. Oil or grease can come from a leaky wheel bearing or axle seal.
Before you can install the new pads, the caliper piston(s) must be pushed back into the caliper to make room for the new pads (which will be thicker than the old worn pads). A large C-clamp can be used for this purpose.
When the new pads are installed, make sure they fit snugly in the caliper mount. If any mounting shims, springs or anti-rattle clips are badly corroded or missing, install new mounting hardware. Also inspect the caliper bushings, pins and slides for damage, wear or severe corrosion. Replace as needed.
ROTOR CHECKS
Also note the condition of the rotors. Deep scratches or grooves indicate a need for resurfacing. Are there discolored spots, heat cracks or warpage? These may also indicate a need for rotor resurfacing or replacement.
Rotor runout can be measured by placing a dial indicator against the face of the rotor and turning the rotor. If runout exceeds specifications, corrective measures are needed.
Measure runout and parallelism, too. As a general rule, the rotors on most cars and trucks should have less than .003 inches of runout, and some cars cannot tolerate any more than .0015 inches of runout. If runout is higher than this, it might be corrected by reindexing the position of the rotor on the hub (Note: hub runout should also be checked, resurfacing the rotors on the vehicle with an on-car lathe, or by installing tapered shims behind the rotors.)
Note the condition of the calipers and caliper mounts. Also note whether or not the pads are worn evenly. Uneven pad wear can be caused by corrosion on the caliper mounting guides or keyway.
Pull a drum and inspect the drum surface, brake shoes, hardware and wheel cylinder. If the shoe linings are at, or below minimum specifications, new shoes are needed. If the linings are still above minimum specs but are getting thin, new shoes should be recommended to extend the life of the brakes.
Check everywhere for leaks: the master cylinder, proportioning valve, steel brake lines and rubber hoses, and ABS components if so equipped. Have a helper apply the brakes while you look underneath. Rubber hoses should not expand under pressure. Any hoses that are chaffed, cracked or swell under pressure need to be replaced.
Any leak is a potential safety hazard because loss of fluid can mean loss of stopping power. If you discover a leak, do not postpone repairs because leaks create a potentially dangerous situation.
MINIMIZING BRAKE NOISE
That brings us to the problem of noise, which seems to be an especially troublesome problem these days for many vehicles. Another aspect of the complete brake job is doing everything you can to minimize noise.
Anything that causes or increases vibration amplifies brake noise. This includes excessive runout or roughness on the face of the rotors, glazed linings, loose pads, even rusted, worn or loose caliper mounts.
Resurfacing the rotors may therefore be necessary to reduce pad vibration. You might also install pad shims or insulators to dampen vibrations between the pads and calipers and new caliper mounting hardware to prevent problems here, too. Brake grease can also be applied to the backs of the pads to dampen noise.
BRAKE ROTOR RESURFACING
Rotor resurfacing is not necessary when the pads are replaced provided the rotors are in reasonably good condition (within acceptable runout, parallelism and wear specs). Even so, there are valid reasons for having the rotors resurfaced.
If a rotor is close to the OEM minimum thickness specification or cannot be resurfaced without exceeding the spec, then the rotor is near the end of its useful service life and replacement is recommended. If the rotor is at or below the minimum thickness specification, it must be replaced.
Worn rotors are dangerous rotors for three important reasons:
Worn rotors have less mass and are therefore less able to absorb and dissipate heat. This can elevate brake temperatures, which may lead to fading under hard use. Pad wear will also be accelerated.
Worn rotors are weak rotors. If not replaced, they may wear down to the point where they cause brake failure.
Worn rotors increase the distance the caliper piston(s) have to travel when the brakes are applied. If the distance is too great, there’s a danger of fluid leakage or the piston sticking.
Another reason for resurfacing rotors is if lateral runout or wobble exceeds OEM specs. You can attempt to reindex the rotor, but the best solution is to resurface the rotor on the vehicle with an on-car lathe. The lathe will cut the rotor true to the caliper mount or hub (depending upon how the equipment is mounted).
Resurfacing may also be needed if parallelism between the rotor faces exceeds OEM specs (generally about .0005 in.). If the rotor is warped or has hard spots, it will have to be resurfaced or replaced.
Hard spots that develop from overheating or uneven torquing of lug nuts can create raised areas on the surface that often extend below the surface. The metallurgical changes in the rotor will often cause the hard spots to return after a few thousand miles, so rotor replacement might be the best repair recommendation.
Regardless of the type of rotor resurfacing equipment used, always remove the least amount of metal necessary to restore the rotor surface. This will maximize rotor life. After turning the rotor on a lathe, some technicians will buff both sides of the rotor with a Flex Tool or sand the rotors with #120 to #150 grit sandpaper with moderate to heavy force for 60 seconds on each side to create a smooth, nondirectional or crosshatch finish. This is done to minimize the risk of noise with semimetallic pads.
REPLACING BRAKE HARDWARE
A complete brake job may also include new hardware. When replacing brake shoes, pay close attention to the condition of the hardware — especially the all-important return springs. Over time, heat weakens the springs and reduces their ability to pull the shoes back from the drum when the brakes are released. The brakes may begin to drag, causing shoe wear to accelerate and fuel economy to take a noticeable dip.
As the springs continue to age, they get weaker, stretch and may eventually break. MAP says there’s no reason to replace the springs unless they are obviously stretched, heat discolored, broken or damaged. But because of the risks associated with reusing high mileage springs and mounting hardware, you should install new return springs and other brake hardware — especially if the vehicle has a lot of miles on it.
If a parking brake cable is badly corroded and needs replacing, replace both cables to minimize the risk of future problems.
And don’t forget the wheel bearings. The greasable variety in older rear-wheel drive vehicles need to be cleaned, inspected, repacked with fresh grease, reinstalled with new seals and adjusted to specs. The sealed variety should be inspected for excessive play or roughness. If either type are not in acceptable condition, they need to be replaced.
Be sure to lubricate the shoe support pads on the drum backing plates with brake lubricant (never ordinary chassis grease). Also, lubricate the parking brake mechanism.
BLEED THE BRAKES
A complete brake repair job also includes fresh brake fluid. Bleeding is necessary for two reasons:
To remove air bubbles that may have entered the system while repairs were being made because of a leak or a brake fluid level that got too low. The air must be removed because it is compressible and can prevent a full, firm pedal.
To remove moisture contamination.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and contributes to internal corrosion.
Changing the fluid periodically (every two years or when the brakes are relined) for preventive maintenance rids the brake system of unwanted moisture, restores the fluid’s boiling temperature and prolongs the life of the hydraulic components by minimizing the potential for internal corrosion. This can be an especially important consideration on vehicles equipped with antilock brakes (ABS) because of the high replacement cost of the hydraulic modulator assembly.
FINISHING THE BRAKE REPAIR JO
When you’ve completed your brake repair, pump the brake pedal several times to confirm the pedal is firm before moving or driving the vehicle. If this is not done, the pedal may go to the floor and the brakes may be unable to stop the vehicle!
Do a short test drive at slow speed to confirm the brakes are working properly. The pedal should feel firm, the brakes should apply without pulling or grabbing, and you should hear no noise.
30/30/30 BRAKE PAD BURNISHING PROCEDURE
Perform 30 stops from 30 miles per hour with a 30-second cooling interval between stops. These stops will be performed at a decelerating rate of 12 feet per second or less. This means that it should be a gentle easy stop.
The 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure beds the pads and shoes into the rotor and drums. It also deposits the necessary friction transfer to the rotors and drums for optimum brake performance.
Do NOT go out and slam on the brakes as hard as you can. This can glaze the pads resulting in brake noise and reduced stopping performance. Take it easy on the brakes the first couple hundred miles of driving.
If the pedal feels soft or spongy, there may be air trapped in the brake lines. You should bleed the brake lines again to remove the air. If the pedal has too much travel, the self-adjusters inside the drums may need to be readjusted to reduce the clearance between the shoes and drums.
If the brakes pull or grab, a caliper may be sticking or there may be oil, grease or brake fluid on the pads or rotors. Inspect and clean as needed.
Complete brake repair job services are available from the experts at Pops Auto Electric and AC. Pop’s has certified brake experts and guarantee to meet or beat any brake repair quote from a legitimate auto service center. Give Pops Auto Electric and AC a call for all your auto repair needs, but epically if you hear any of the symptoms discussed above, don’t gamble with your families lives, call today:
Power brake boosters
Emergency / parking brake
Anti lock, disc and drum brakes
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the brake system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those brakes!
Brake System Repair & Maintenance; What is the Process
Simply put, brakes are what make your car stop and. More importantly, your brakes help keep you, your family, and everyone around you safe. Proper brake system repair and maintenance of your automotive braking system will help you avoid accidents as well as costly repairs. Additionally, you should have your brake system checked every time you have your tires rotated and brake system repair handled by certified professionals when needed.
Here are some warning signs that you need to have your brakes serviced:
A high pitched squealing sound.
This is a safety feature on modern brakes to let you know the pads are wearing thin and need to be replaced. A sure sign that you need brake system repair work before things get worse.
Sounds of grinding metal.
This means that the pads have been completely worn out and need to be replaced immediately to avoid damage to other parts of the brake system. This is a sign that you need brake system repair, and you need attention quickly or you will destroy your rotors, a much more expensive brake system repair process.
Lowered responsiveness and fading.
Air in the brakes lines or leaking fluid will cause the brakes to “catch” with the pedal closer to the floorboard.
Vibration and pulsations when braking.
This can be caused by warped rotors or the tires being out of balance. When rotors are warped, the brake pads cannot fully grip and braking will not be as effective. Brake system repair or maintenance is recommended as soon as possible.
Pulling to one side.
This can be caused by the brakes on one side not gripping as firmly as the other or from debris in the brake lines.
Parking brake sticks.
This is an indication the brakes are not fully disengaging and can cause extra wear on your rear brakes. Brake system repair is recommended before the situation worsens, brakes are one thing on your car you can not ignore.
Pop’s Auto Electric and AC technicians are trained and certified in brake system repair, service, inspection and maintenance of the following:
All hydraulic components including lines, hoses, cylinders and calipers
Brake fluid checked for age and containments
Rotors and drums inspected for thickness and damage
Power brake boosters
Emergency / parking brake
Anti lock, disc and drum brakes
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the brake system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those brakes!
Checking Auto AC System for Freon Levels and Problems In Orlando Florida
There are many parts to an Auto AC System, and here in Florida the Auto AC System is in use 365 days a year. In Orlando Florida Pops Auto Electric is the most reliable place to get your Auto AC System repaired quickly, correctly and at a reasonable rate. We are going to offer a series of blogs on the different parts of an Auto AC System that can go wrong.
The first area of concern, and the easiest fix is low Freon, but be aware, low Freon can be a symptom, and if you don’t know what you are doing, you can seriously damage other parts of you Auto AC System, cause more work and expense than to have a professional do it in the first place.
That said, here is everything you need to know to check your Freon, and charge the system like a pro. Please note that we suggest professional equipment for this job, and remind you that using inexpensive cans from discount stores, may seriously damage your Auto AC System.
Step 1: Freon check
You will need a set of professional manifold gauges to check you Freon pressure.
Here are some general guideline for Auto AC System pressures and temperatures based on ambient outside temperature. Remember that these are a guideline and your actual Auto AC System temperatures and pressures will vary depending on humidity in the air and the condition of your Auto AC System. When running the car at idle to check the Freon level it is a good idea to have a water hose handy and spray water on the Auto AC System condenser. The condenser is located in front of the radiator.
For vehicles currently running with Freon R-134a only
Outside—–low side——-High side——Center vent temp
60 F —–28-38 psi—-130-190 psi —-44-46 F
70 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-44-48 F
80 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-43-48 F
90 F ——35-40 psi —190-225 psi —-44-50 F
100 F —–40-50 psi —200-250 psi —-52-60 F
110 F —–50-60 psi —250-300 psi —-68-74 F
120 F —–55-65 psi —320-350 psi —-70-75 F
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You can also use this good rule of thumb with R134a, run fan on High with all windows open and engine at 1500 rpm. High side pressure in PSI should be about 2.2 to 2.5 times outside air temperature in degrees F. Example if it’s 90 degrees F, high side should be no higher than 225PSI
Above is a useful trouble shooting chart for an Auto AC System currently running on Freon R-134a
Trouble shooting
Low Compressor Discharge Pressure
1. Leak in Auto AC System
2. Defective expansion valve
3. Suction valve closed
4. Freon shortage
5. Plugged receiver drier
6. Compressor suction valve leaking
7. Bad reed valves in compressor
Repair
1. Repair leak in Auto AC System
2. Replace valve
3. Open valve
4. Add Freon
5. Replace drier
6. Replace valve
7. Replace reed valves
High Compressor Discharge Pressure
1.Air in Auto AC System
2. Clogged condenser
3. Discharge valve closed
4. Overcharged system
5. Insufficient condenser air
6. Loose fan belt
7. Condenser not centered on fan or too far from radiator
Repair
1. Recharge Auto AC System
2. Clean condenser
3. Open valve
4. Remove some refrigerant
5. Install large fan
6. Tighten fan belt
7. Center and check distance
Low Suction Pressure
1. Refrigerant shortage in Auto AC System
2. Worn compressor piston
3. Compressor head gasket leaking
4. Kinked or flattened hose
5. Compressor suction valve leaking
6. Moisture in system
7. Trash in expansion valve or screen
Repair
1. Add refrigerant to Auto AC System
2. Replace compressor
3. Replace head gasket
4. Replace hose
5. Change valve plate
6. Replace drier
7. Replace drier
High Suction Pressure
1. Loose expansion valve on Auto AC System
2. Overcharged system
3. Expansion valve stuck open
4. Compressor reed valves
5. Leaking head gasket on compressor
Repair
1. Tighten valve on auto AC System
2. Remove some refrigerant
3. Replace expansion valve
4. Replace reed valves
5. Replace head gasket
Compressor Not Working
1. Broken belt that operates Auto AC System
2. Broken clutch wire or no 12v power
3. Broken compressor piston
4. Bad thermostat
5. Bad clutch coil
6. Low Refrigerant – low pressure switch has cut off clutch power
Repair
1. Replace belt on Auto AC System
2. Repair wire or check for power
3. Replace compressor
4. Replace thermostat
5. Replace clutch coil
6. Add refrigerant
Evaporator Not Cooling
1. Frozen coil, switch set too highon Auto AC System
2. Drive belt slipping
3. Hot air leaks into car
4. Plugged receiver drier
5. Capillary tube broken
6. Shortage of refrigerant
7. High head pressure
8. Low suction pressure
9. High suction pressure
10. Defective expansion valve
11. Frozen expansion valve
Repair
1. Turn thermostat switch back on Auto AC System
2. Tighten belt
3. Check for holes or open vents
4. Replace drier
5. Replace expansion valve
6. Add refrigerant
7. See problem #2
8. See problem #3
9. See problem #4
10. Replace expansion valve
11. Evacuate and replace drier
Frozen Evaporator Coil
1. Faulty thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Thermostat not set properly
3. Insufficient evaporator air
Repair
1. Replace thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Set to driving condition
3. Check for excessive duct hose length, kink or bend.
If you can’t get your Auto AC System to turn on then use this chart to determine if you are low on Freon. Remember that this is a general char and will vary for different makes and model cars and refrigeration units
Have you seen a dash light come on and then headlights dim slightly when blinkers are on, how about a growling noise coming from under the hood. These could be signs of alternator problems, a very simple repair for a professional, but if unattended, can leave you stranded and at the mercy of whatever help happens to be in towing distance.
Here in Central Florida, Pops Auto Electric prides itself on superior service at very reasonable prices, and auto electric like the car’s alternator is a particular specialty. Wherever you are located in the world, find a trusted auto electric specialist like Pops Auto Electric here in Central Florida, because automobile alternators going bad can be a symptom of more complex auto electric problems.
Basically, when the engine is running, an automobile alternator, when functioning properly, provides all electric to the various needs of the automobile, from the operating of the spark plugs to lights, blinkers, radio, ac fan and charging the automobile battery. When you add after market electrical items like effect lighting or a high end speaker system, you must make sure the automobile alternator is rated to handle the extra load.
If you see dimming of lights, bad radio reception, and intermittent warning lights, this is not due to a failing battery, it is most likely a problem with your automobile alternator.
Here are the 5 signs of a failing or insufficient automobile alternator:
1) Warning Light: this light will be red usually and shaped like a battery or the letters ALT or GEN. This light comes on because of an automobile alternator problem or an electrical problem that is effecting the alternator’s ability to charge the battery. If you see this light on, and you are in Central Florida call 407 857 8597 for no cost advice or call a professional auto electric specialist in your area, immediately. This problem will not go away, the longer you wait the less choices you will have.
2) If your lights dim when the ac turns on or goes up and down slightly when the blinker is on, you have an electrical problem. Either the automobile alternator is failing or is insufficient to handle the power requirements of your mode of transportation, call for help before it is too late, the problem will not go away, it will get worse, and then the over strained or failing automobile alternator will simply fail all together.
3) Do you smell burning rubber, here a growling or wining sound, you may have waited too long, get to an auto electric specialist now! When an automobile alternator completely fails, it can seize, which stops the pulley of the serpentine belt (see Pops Auto Electric blog on Serpentine Belt on the previous page) and the belt will fail. If this happens, you are stuck wherever you are, do not attempt to drive the car with a broken serpentine belt, you will overheat and seize the engine. If this has happened to you, don’t worry, if you are in Central Florida call 407 857 8597 and Pops Auto Electric will come get you and fix your problems, you can depend on them.
4) If your car won’t start and you have a relatively new battery, a simple charge is probably not the answer; it is most likely an alternator or electric problem, go to an auto electric specialist in your area, this problem will not go away. If you left your lights on, a mistake we have all made, charge the battery, if the battery has gone dead for no apparent reason, it could be alternator, or improperly wired component, a short or any number of things only an auto electric specialist like Pops Auto Electric is qualified to diagnose.
5) If the battery goes dead but your alternator checks out OK, a professional like Pops Auto Electric, in Orlando Florida, can quickly and efficiently diagnose the problem. Don’t take chances; small electrical problems can lead to major life threatening automobile fires and life threatening situations. Automobile electric issues could mean you or your family may be injured, go to an auto electric specialist now.
If you own a late model car made somewhere on earth, you can bet it probably has a serpentine belt. A serpentine belt is a single ribbed belt that drives all the accessories, A/C, Power Steering, alternator and various other pumps and accessories with just one belt. They should require no maintenance unlike belts on older models called the V-Belt that needed periodic adjusting. Even though the serpentine belt requires no maintenance or adjustments as long as it is in good condition they do need to be inspected often to you replace the belt before it reaches the end of its life and leaves you dead on the road. If it starts to go bad, you can replace your serpentine belt at a time of your choosing and not when the belt decides for you. When a serpentine belt brakes, you lose everything, cooling, ac and alternator, you do not want to let this happen. Checking ribbed drive belts at every oil change, and the position of the self-adjusting mechanism indicator, will insure you catch a bad belt long before it snaps.
The backside of the serpentine drive belt, or the smooth side, usually drives the water pump. If the serpentine belt gets oil soaked or glazed, it will slip and not provide the proper circulation to keep the engine cool. And if there is oil on the serpentine belt, it’s coming from somewhere so you will need to find out where and fix it before putting on a new serpentine drive belt. We suggest calling Pops Auto Electric for help, but do it yourselfer read on.
Look for tears or abrasions. If you see any it means the serpentine drive belt is rubbing a pulley flange or bolt as it winds it way around. This will happen more often as the drive belt gets older. If this happens you may need to file a pulley flange smooth or bend something out of the way. We again recommend a qualified mechanic, for filing engine parts can cause permanent damage if not done correctly.
Also look for pinholes and/or bumps. If you see any it means dirt and debris is getting in between the serpentine drive belt and the pulleys. Turn the belt around and see if there are chunks of the ribs missing. You can crank the engine to expose sections of belt as you inspect. A few, small widely spaced chunks are okay, But if there are many and/or close together, replace the serpentine drive belt. We cannot emphasize strongly enough that inspecting the belt in this manor can endanger your fingers, hundreds of fingers are lost each year but not taking proper safety precautions, do not touch the belt when moving, the groves will grip your fingers and could cause irreparable damage to your person. Hairline cracks are normal, but if they go into the backing, or flat side, of the serpentine drive belt you will need to replace it.
A good rule of thumb for serpentine drive belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart, all around the belt, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be considered as indicative that the belt needs changing. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about halfway through its usable life. Remember, using a qualified auto mechanic shop like Pops Auto Electric in Orlando Florida is inexpensive compared to the expense of replacing engine parts and worse case fingers.
Insulation of the Serpentine belt in Your Automobile
Check the tensioner first
A “good” tensioner arm should exhibit just a slight vibration with about 1/32 in. or less of arm movement. And the belt should run smoothly with no visible vibration. If the tensioner arm exhibits a jerky vibrating motion, the belt vibrates, or the tensioning arm moves 1/4 in., the tensioner is bad.
If your tensioner is bad and it’s one of the more difficult styles to replace, you won’t want to waste your time changing the belt. The shop would just have to remove the belt again to replace the tensioner. So check the tensioner first with these three tests and if it looks like it could be bad contact Pops Auto Electric in Central Florida or a qualified auto repair shop for verification.
The first test is a visual inspection with the engine running to assess the dampening feature of the tensioner. Pop the hood, start the engine and turn on the AC. Then shine a light on the belt tensioner and observe the tensioner arm roller for excessive movement (Photo 1). If it passes the visual test, move on to the “crank” test (Photo 2). The tensioner arm should rotate smoothly during crank and release with no binding. If the travel isn’t smooth, replace the entire tensioner. Next, check the condition of the tensioner arm pulley/roller (Photo 3). If the pulley or roller exhibits any roughness, binding or noise, that is also cause to replace the entire tensioner.
Many tensioners are readily accessible and attach to the engine with a single bolt. To replace that style, simply remove the belt and then the retaining bolt. Pull off the old tensioner, noting the location of the locking pin on the back. Then slide the new unit into place, lining up the locking pin with the hole in the engine. Hand-tighten the bolt and then tighten it with a torque wrench to the factory specifications shown in your shop manual.
How to tell if you need a new serpentine belt
Press the gauge into a belt groove. As long as the gauge sits above the ribs, the belt is good. If it slides down so it’s even with the rib, the belt is worn and must be replaced.
First-generation serpentine belts were made from a nitrile compound that cracked with use. If your belt has cracks in three or more adjacent ribs within a 1-in. span, or has four or more cracks per inch on a single rib, it’s time to replace it. You also need a new belt if you notice any of these conditions: chunks missing from the rib area, torn or frayed fabric, glazing on the belt’s back side or debris trapped in the ribs.
Starting with the 2000 models, carmakers switched from nitrile to ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) belts. EPDM belts last much longer and don’t crack or lose chunks the way nitrile belts do. But they do wear, and that wear is much harder to detect. You can measure EPDM belt wear with a gauge or a smartphone app. Both products are available for free from Gates Corp. (go to gatesprograms.com/beltwear and click on either tool).
In most cases, you’ll want to use the plastic gauge to measure your belt, as shown above. However, if you have a smartphone and enough maneuvering room to shoot a close-up photo (engine off), let technology do the work for you. The app works by analyzing the width of the ribs compared with the width of the grooves.
Always buy premium belts instead of economy grade — you’ll get almost twice the mileage.
The right tools make it a do-it-yourself project
Examine the decal that shows the belt routing. If yours doesn’t have one, draw one before you start the job.
You can replace a serpentine belt with ordinary hand tools. But we don’t recommend it. The spaces are often tight and the belt-driven devices difficult to reach. Using a serpentine belt tool to loosen the tensioner and a belt placement tool to position the belt, we completed the entire job in less than 15 minutes, without breaking a sweat (or a knuckle). The serpentine belt tool comes with an assortment of sockets, making it the perfect choice for all the cars in your family. The two extension bars can be configured to reach the tensioner at the proper angle, and the extra-long handle provides maximum leverage so you can release the pressure easily. The belt placement tool allowed us to remove and properly place the new belt without reaching down into the pulley area.
Note: If your car requires the removal of an engine mount in order to remove the serpentine belt, or the belt’s just nearly impossible to get at, we recommend you leave the job to a professional.
Want to make this problem go away with one simple phone call?
