Pops Auto Electric & AC of Orlando Florida Explains Oil Change for Honda Civic
Filter access
First step when you want to do an oil change for Honda Civic with the D16 engine, the oil filter is located on the back side of the engine, beneath the intake manifold, making access difficult from above. The best method to remove the old filter is to use a “cup type” oil filter wrench. Once you have this wrench, it fits the flutes on the end of the filter, use an extension of appropriate length, and a ratchet handle; this assembly is wormed down through the very narrow space between intake manifold and firewall and onto the filter.
4 reasons uninstalling an oil filter for Honda Civic can become complicated:
1) An oil filter has previously been installed which has a different size than the stock Honda filter. Some of the national oil-change chains will often install what they have and make it fit.
2) The oil filter may refuse to be removed may be because of over tightening when installed
3) Too long a time lapse since the last installation of the filter
4) In some cases use of oil leak sealant additives, which can cause the rubber seal on the filter to adhere tightly to the block this is by design, to cause rubber gaskets to seal more tightly and stop an oil leak.
Any of the problems above may give you pause before attempting an oil change for Honda Civic. Many simply do not change the Oil Filter, a very big mistake. We at Pops Auto Electric can quickly, efficiently and at a price that will not break the bank, handle any of these problems. Pops Auto Electric is a full service shop, we are not a chain and we want to help you keep that Honda Civic on the road for many years. When it comes to customizing paint restoration even installing power windows, we will be here to help.
Let’s assume you got the oil filter off and have not stripped the engine attachment threads when doing an oil change for Honda Civic:
Oil Draining Plug
When doing an oil change for Honda Civic the oil drain plug can be a source of problems. The stock plug uses an aluminum crush washer to seal against leaks, which must be torqued fairly tightly (the same system is used on the manual transmission fill and drain plugs). Contrary to occasional practice, the washer should never be reused except as a temporary measure in an emergency, as it then requires even more torque to properly seal. Given the relatively high torque needed to properly seal the plug, it is not unusual for the plug to be over tightened and the threads stripped; luckily, it is usually the plug which is damaged and can be replaced, rather than the more complex process of fixing damaged threads in the oil pan. Some enterprising mechanics substitute a nylon washer, as is sometimes found on other cars, rather than the aluminum washer; the torque required for proper sealing is greatly lessened, but the nylon has a tendency to soften when hot and creep out from under the plug, so that leaks develop over time, particularly in warmer temperatures. One possible solution is to install one of the oil drain valves, available either from Fumoto or Fram. These take the place of the stock drain plug, by threading into the oil pan, and utilize a valve which is turned by hand to drain the engine oil. While tapping the drain hole and installing a larger plug, or installing a self-tapping plug are acceptable, they are not the recommended solution, as these types of plugs tend develop leaks over a short period of time. Also, the metal shavings created by the tap may become suspended in the remaining oil, causing premature engine wear. The proper repair, if the threads for the drain plug in the oil pan become stripped, is to replace the engine oil pan altogether. Simply stated, oil change for Honda Civic is no easy task, it can cause serious damage to the engine if preformed improperly and extra experience to repair the damage you have done. Complications can arise from oil changes preformed by a previous owner, in the best case situation; you need specialized tools and the knowledge that only comes from years of experience.
Call us; we are here to help you with oil change for Honda Civic, with a very special price.
Pops Auto Electric & AC, a full service auto repair shop
Pops Auto Electric Explains the Effects of Resistance in an Auto Electric System
Resistance (R) in the Ohm’s law equation is what the electricity works against in an electrical circuit. Resistance is measured in ohms (Ω). Resistance can come in many forms, some good, some not so good.
Every electrical circuit needs some form of resistance. If not, you have a short circuit, and we know what happens if we have one of those. Resistance can be as simple as a light bulb or as complex as a PCM. Both create a certain amount of resistance that is accounted for in its circuit.
A few key things can affect resistance:
One is heat; the higher the temperature, the higher the resistance. The reason for this is that a heated substance has a lot of molecular movement, which affects electron flow. The harder it is for electrons to flow, the more resistance you have. That’s the layman’s definition of resistance.
Distance can also affect resistance; the longer a wire is, the more resistance it has. Think back to our car with a tank of gas. We’re going to use more gas the farther we have to travel to get back to the negative battery post. The size or amount of conductive material that the electricity passes through can also affect resistance. A wide-open path with a very conductive material has little resistance. Conversely, a small wire with a not-so-conductive material has more resistance.
The takeaway here is that resistance can be good or bad depending on where you find it. You need the resistance of the load of an electric circuit in order for the circuit to function, but if you have unwanted resistance, the circuit will not function as intended.
Testing Resistance
Checking a circuit’s resistance over a voltage drop test can be risky for an amateur. The main reason is because when you’re doing a voltage drop test, you get to see what’s happening on a live circuit. Resistance checks are done on open circuits that are isolated from the rest of the circuit.
When doing resistance checks, you must remove what you’re checking from the circuit first in order to do your resistance check; otherwise, you might damage the circuit or your meter. It’s for that reason that resistance tests are found to be inconclusive sometimes. Sure, there are times when testing resistance is the only way to test a circuit within the auto electric system, but when diagnosing a problem in a circuit, a voltage drop test is best for the amateur.
Case in point: ignition coil testing. Manufacturers list the resistance that should be seen at the primary and secondary windings of an ignition coil. It is difficult at best to find a bad ignition coil this way.
Electrical engineers have found a coil can have good resistance readings and still be bad. The reason for this is that the windings inside the coil are made of very thin wire. You can have a small break in this wire and the resistance will still indicate everything is fine, but the minute the coil is under load, it fails because of the open or short in the windings.
On the other hand, if checking a coolant temp sensor, resistance testing is the way to go. Be sure to use resistance checks wisely when trying to find the effects of resistance in an auto electric system. Why not call Pop’s Auto Electric and solve auto electric system problem with the industry experts. There is a reason that other shops send electrical problems to Pop’s Auto Electric.
This works for every electrical circuit according to Ohm’s law. Once you know the circuit, you know where the gas (voltage) is going and you can measure it at different points in the circuit to get a good idea of how the circuit is operating.
One last example that might give you some practical insight: Say you have an electrical connector with some corrosion in it. You can’t see the corrosion, but you suspect it’s there. You can take a voltage reading before and after the connector to check the voltage drop across the connector. You should see close to zero volts. If you see a higher voltage than expected, you’ve found increased resistance in the circuit.
Voltage drop testing is your best friend when it comes to diagnosing automotive electric circuits. At Pop’s Auto Electric, we are experts in all forms of voltage testing. In fact local shops call us to trace, diagnose and fix difficult automotive electrical problems. Call Pop’s Auto Electric today for a free estimate.
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the automotive electric system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those problems now!
Contact Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
Pops Auto Electric, Explains the Ups and Downs of Amperes
Amperes
Amperes, amps, or current is the measure of the flow of electricity through a given circuit, and vital in diagnosing automotive electrical problems. It’s the (I) in the Ohm’s law equation above. Amps are different than voltage in that amps are the same throughout the entire circuit, unlike voltage, which starts out high then drops to zero when it reaches the negative battery post. Amps are the same at the beginning and the end of a circuit. If you have five amps at the beginning of the circuit, you’ll have five amps at the end of the circuit.
To continue with our automotive analogy, we’ll equate amps to speed. The higher the amps, the faster the speed. The number of amps a circuit uses is dictated by the load and the resistance in the circuit. The bigger the load, the more amps a circuit will use. A starter motor will use a lot more amps than a window motor because the window motor will not need as many amps to run as a starter motor would. This next fact about amps gets a little weird. The lower the resistance in a circuit, the higher the amp flow.
Sticking with our speed analogy, the more amps you have in a circuit, the faster things flow. Remember in the first blog we stated that if you had a short circuit you’d blow fuses and possibly burn things up? That was talking about amps.
If you have unrestricted electron flow with no load, amps get out of control. It’s like a speeding locomotive that goes off the track. Something is going to break. With automotive electrical problems, it’s usually the weakest link, which should be the fuse. Ever notice how fuses are rated in amps, not voltage? Now you know why.
One last little factoid about amps: You can have high voltage in a circuit and it won’t be that harmful to you. It’ll wake you up for sure, but it won’t kill you. However, if you have just a few amps to go with that high voltage, watch out. As little as 0.2 amps mixed with the right amount of voltage can kill you.
In fact, it might even be less than that depending on the circumstances. It’s not the voltage that hurts you; it’s the amps. It doesn’t take too many amps to knock you on your butt, so be extra careful when dealing with amps. This is why, if you don’t fully understand automotive electric problems, leave it to the professionals, call Pops Auto Electric now. To use another common analogy, if volts are pressure, amps are intensity or volume. You can have lots of pressure, but when you add intensity, things can get lively.
Ampere Testing
Professionals don’t often do amp testing when dealing with automotive circuits, other than when performing a parasitic draw test. There are two ways you can test amps in an automotive circuit when diagnosing automotive electrical problems. The first is with an inductive amp meter.
This is a tool that measures the magnetic field around a wire. The circuit has to be live for this to work. Say you’re looking to test the amps going to the starter via the positive battery cable. Place your amp meter around the positive battery cable and engage the starter to take your reading. You won’t get a reading if you’re not cranking the starter.
The other way to measure amps is by tying into the circuit directly, or tying in ‘series’. This means you open the circuit somewhere and insert your amp meter. All the amps in the circuit need to flow through your meter in order to test this way.
This can be tricky, and many a DVOM has suffered from improper amp testing. Don’t worry; most of them are fused, so if you mess up, hopefully you’ll be able to replace a fuse and be back in business. So to be safe when checking high amp circuits, use an inductive lead instead of connecting in series, or simply make an appointment with Pops Auto Electric and avoid problems. Remember, be careful when dealing with amps.
This works for every electrical circuit according to Ohm’s law. Once you know the circuit, you know where the gas (voltage) is going and you can measure it at different points in the circuit to get a good idea of how the circuit is operating.
One last example that might give you some practical insight: Say you have an electrical connector with some corrosion in it. You can’t see the corrosion, but you suspect it’s there. You can take a voltage reading before and after the connector to check the voltage drop across the connector. You should see close to zero volts. If you see a higher voltage than expected, you’ve found increased resistance in the circuit.
Voltage drop testing is your best friend when it comes to diagnosing automotive electric circuits. At Pop’s Auto Electric, we are experts in all forms of voltage testing. In fact local shops call us to trace, diagnose and fix difficult automotive electrical problems. Call Pop’s Auto Electric today for a free estimate.
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the automotive electric system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those problems now!
Contact Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
Voltage, Amps, Resistance, and Ohm’s Law from the Automotive Electric Masters; Pop’s Auto Electric
Knowing how to measure electric is key to understanding how automotive electric works. Electricity is not something we can necessarily see and put our hands on. Because of that, there are standard ways of measuring and using electricity. Georg Ohm was one of the people who developed the standards we use today. He came up with what is now called Ohm’s law. Ohm’s law is written like this:
IVR
I = Current Flow or Amps
V = Voltage
R = Resistance
What Ohm gave us this formula which says; amps, voltage, and resistance are interrelated. If you know two of the three in the equation, you can figure out the value of the missing one. If you know the volts and the resistance, you can divide the volts by the resistance and find out how many amps are flowing through the circuit. It’s a handy formula that can give a better understanding of how electricity really works.
Voltage
Voltage (V) is the potential energy of electricity. Voltage can be present even if there is no current flow. For example, your battery can have 12 volts in it even if it’s not being used. That 12 volts is still there, waiting to be used, and is the battery’s potential. Think of battery voltage like you think of a full tank of gas; it can get you somewhere, but not until you start the engine and begin to use it.
One really interesting thing about voltage is that in an electrical circuit, all of the voltage the electrical circuit started with is used up when traveling through the circuit. For example, if you start with 12 volts at the battery positive and you run it through a circuit, by the time it goes through the load and reaches the negative battery post to complete the circuit, it’s down to zero volts.
Why is this useful? Because it allows us to do one of the best tests in automotive electric diagnostics: the voltage drop.
Voltage Drop Testing
Voltage drop testing is probably the best way to find an electrical fault. Because the voltage drops as it travels through the circuit, we can tell where it’s being used simply by measuring the voltage at different points in the circuit.
Think of a car that leaves the positive battery post with just enough gas to work the load and get to the negative battery post. By the time the car reaches the negative battery post, it runs out of gas and that’s it. That’s how voltage works; it starts at its highest level at the positive battery terminal and ends up at zero when it reaches the negative battery terminal.
Now, what if somewhere in the circuit, our car take a detour and goes down a different road and the car decides not to take the road (circuit) all the way back to battery negative. We call this a short circuit. When this happens, we often blow fuses and sometimes melt or burn up parts. This is because of the unrestricted amp flow that occurs during a short circuit.
What if our car encounters an obstruction in the road (circuit) and we use more gas getting through the obstruction on our way back to battery negative. The theoretical car still make it back to battery negative, but since we used so much fuel (voltage) getting through the resistance and the load, there’s hardly any fuel left to do any work.
This is what happens when we have increased resistance in an automotive electric circuit. If that’s the case with, say, a window motor, the window motor will still work; it will just work very slowly. Why? Because of the increased resistance we had to go through to get back to battery negative. We ended up using almost all our fuel (voltage) overcoming the resistance in the circuit. Less fuel (voltage) means there isn’t enough to run the window motor at full capacity.
If we did a voltage drop test following the path of the automotive electric circuit, we could see where the fuel (voltage) was being used. We should see the biggest drop across the load of the circuit, which, in the case of a window motor, is the window motor.
While the circuit is operational, we can check the voltage before and after the motor. Voltage drops need to be done on a live circuit; if they’re not active, you won’t get any readings. Remember that voltage is electricity’s potential energy; if it’s not being used, it’s just potential.
Before the motor, we should see something close to the 12V we started with. We won’t see the full 12V because we had to use some of the gas (voltage) to get through the wires, and probably switches, going to the motor itself. These things give us a little resistance that we need to account for when checking the automotive electric voltage before the motor. After the motor, however, we should see some pretty low voltage, because we used all our gas (voltage) to run the motor.
This works for every electrical circuit according to Ohm’s law. Once you know the circuit, you know where the gas (voltage) is going and you can measure it at different points in the circuit to get a good idea of how the circuit is operating.
One last example that might give you some practical insight: Say you have an electrical connector with some corrosion in it. You can’t see the corrosion, but you suspect it’s there. You can take a voltage reading before and after the connector to check the voltage drop across the connector. You should see close to zero volts. If you see a higher voltage than expected, you’ve found increased resistance in the circuit.
Voltage drop testing is your best friend when it comes to diagnosing automotive electric circuits. At Pop’s Auto Electric, we are experts in all forms of voltage testing. In fact local shops call us to trace, diagnose and fix difficult automotive electrical problems. Call Pop’s Auto Electric today for a free estimate.
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the automotive electric system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those problems now!
Contact Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
The Secrets of Auto Electric Explained by the Experts
Electrical issues are a mystery to many auto owners; it is even perplexing to many auto mechanics. At Pop’s Auto Electric in Orlando Florida, we think it’s because you really can’t see or touch electricity in the same way you can with other working components on your vehicle.
It is true that we can see the effects of electricity, or the lack of effect in the case of a failure, but we can’t necessarily put our hands on it like we can with other vehicle components that might fail. For that reason, we need to have a basic understanding of electricity, auto electric and how it works in automotive systems.
The Basics of Auto Electricity
Electricity is the flow of electrons within a conductor. You can get these moving electrons to do things for you in automotive systems, such as starting your engine, charging your phone, controlling vehicle emissions, and opening your windows.
Electrical systems are everywhere in modern automobiles. Having a basic understanding of how electricity works can go a long way toward helping you understand what repairs need to be made within your automotive electrical systems.
The first thing we will explain is the flow of electricity. For the purposes of this blog, we’re going to say that electricity flows from positive to negative. Yes, there are other theories on electron flow, but to keep things simple we’re going to stick with electrons flowing from positive to negative.
To get this electricity to flow and go where we want it to flow, automotive manufacturers use conductors. Conductors are materials that allow electrons to flow freely. Resistors are materials that inhibit electron flow.
We use resistors to insulate our conductors so we keep the electricity flowing where we want it to go. Electricity is funny like that; if you let it, it will find the shortest route to ground, which might happen before you want it to. Professional installers like Pop’s Auto Electric of Central Florida keep this from happening.
Then there are semiconductors: transistors, resistors, and diodes, just to name a few. We use these to help control things in automotive electrical systems. Semiconductors can allow electron flow sometimes but not others. They can block electron flow in one direction, but allow it to flow in the other direction.
They can also be used to change the resistance of a circuit based on temperature. Semiconductors are used extensively in computers and control systems. As a result, you run into a lot of semiconductors in automotive applications.
Another big component of an electrical circuit is the load. The load is what does the work in an electrical circuit. The load can be a lot of things. It can be a motor, a heating element, a bulb, or any number of other electrical components that do work. The load and the resistance in the circuit dictate the amount of current flow in the circuit.
Aside from the wires that carry electricity and the wiring insulation that keeps the electricity on the path we want it to take, we also need the ability to control a circuit. We often do this with switches. Switches come in all shapes and sizes. They can be switches that we activate, or they can be activated automatically when certain conditions are met; they can also turn things off at a given time.
This is a very basic overview of what you’ll find in automotive electrical systems. If any one of the thousands of components and wires has a fault, the automobile may simply stop, malfunction or worse become a danger to the driver and passenger.
At Pop’s Auto Electric in Orlando Florida, we are known as experts in the field of auto electric. In fact many shops in the area send their auto electric problems to us for diagnosis and repair. You don’t want to fiddle around with auto electric, take the problem to the acknowledged experts in the field, trust you auto electric problems to no other than Pop’s Auto Electric of Central Florida!
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the brake system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those brakes!
Checking Auto AC System for Freon Levels and Problems In Orlando Florida
There are many parts to an Auto AC System, and here in Florida the Auto AC System is in use 365 days a year. In Orlando Florida Pops Auto Electric is the most reliable place to get your Auto AC System repaired quickly, correctly and at a reasonable rate. We are going to offer a series of blogs on the different parts of an Auto AC System that can go wrong.
The first area of concern, and the easiest fix is low Freon, but be aware, low Freon can be a symptom, and if you don’t know what you are doing, you can seriously damage other parts of you Auto AC System, cause more work and expense than to have a professional do it in the first place.
That said, here is everything you need to know to check your Freon, and charge the system like a pro. Please note that we suggest professional equipment for this job, and remind you that using inexpensive cans from discount stores, may seriously damage your Auto AC System.
Step 1: Freon check
You will need a set of professional manifold gauges to check you Freon pressure.
Here are some general guideline for Auto AC System pressures and temperatures based on ambient outside temperature. Remember that these are a guideline and your actual Auto AC System temperatures and pressures will vary depending on humidity in the air and the condition of your Auto AC System. When running the car at idle to check the Freon level it is a good idea to have a water hose handy and spray water on the Auto AC System condenser. The condenser is located in front of the radiator.
For vehicles currently running with Freon R-134a only
Outside—–low side——-High side——Center vent temp
60 F —–28-38 psi—-130-190 psi —-44-46 F
70 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-44-48 F
80 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-43-48 F
90 F ——35-40 psi —190-225 psi —-44-50 F
100 F —–40-50 psi —200-250 psi —-52-60 F
110 F —–50-60 psi —250-300 psi —-68-74 F
120 F —–55-65 psi —320-350 psi —-70-75 F
_
You can also use this good rule of thumb with R134a, run fan on High with all windows open and engine at 1500 rpm. High side pressure in PSI should be about 2.2 to 2.5 times outside air temperature in degrees F. Example if it’s 90 degrees F, high side should be no higher than 225PSI
Above is a useful trouble shooting chart for an Auto AC System currently running on Freon R-134a
Trouble shooting
Low Compressor Discharge Pressure
1. Leak in Auto AC System
2. Defective expansion valve
3. Suction valve closed
4. Freon shortage
5. Plugged receiver drier
6. Compressor suction valve leaking
7. Bad reed valves in compressor
Repair
1. Repair leak in Auto AC System
2. Replace valve
3. Open valve
4. Add Freon
5. Replace drier
6. Replace valve
7. Replace reed valves
High Compressor Discharge Pressure
1.Air in Auto AC System
2. Clogged condenser
3. Discharge valve closed
4. Overcharged system
5. Insufficient condenser air
6. Loose fan belt
7. Condenser not centered on fan or too far from radiator
Repair
1. Recharge Auto AC System
2. Clean condenser
3. Open valve
4. Remove some refrigerant
5. Install large fan
6. Tighten fan belt
7. Center and check distance
Low Suction Pressure
1. Refrigerant shortage in Auto AC System
2. Worn compressor piston
3. Compressor head gasket leaking
4. Kinked or flattened hose
5. Compressor suction valve leaking
6. Moisture in system
7. Trash in expansion valve or screen
Repair
1. Add refrigerant to Auto AC System
2. Replace compressor
3. Replace head gasket
4. Replace hose
5. Change valve plate
6. Replace drier
7. Replace drier
High Suction Pressure
1. Loose expansion valve on Auto AC System
2. Overcharged system
3. Expansion valve stuck open
4. Compressor reed valves
5. Leaking head gasket on compressor
Repair
1. Tighten valve on auto AC System
2. Remove some refrigerant
3. Replace expansion valve
4. Replace reed valves
5. Replace head gasket
Compressor Not Working
1. Broken belt that operates Auto AC System
2. Broken clutch wire or no 12v power
3. Broken compressor piston
4. Bad thermostat
5. Bad clutch coil
6. Low Refrigerant – low pressure switch has cut off clutch power
Repair
1. Replace belt on Auto AC System
2. Repair wire or check for power
3. Replace compressor
4. Replace thermostat
5. Replace clutch coil
6. Add refrigerant
Evaporator Not Cooling
1. Frozen coil, switch set too highon Auto AC System
2. Drive belt slipping
3. Hot air leaks into car
4. Plugged receiver drier
5. Capillary tube broken
6. Shortage of refrigerant
7. High head pressure
8. Low suction pressure
9. High suction pressure
10. Defective expansion valve
11. Frozen expansion valve
Repair
1. Turn thermostat switch back on Auto AC System
2. Tighten belt
3. Check for holes or open vents
4. Replace drier
5. Replace expansion valve
6. Add refrigerant
7. See problem #2
8. See problem #3
9. See problem #4
10. Replace expansion valve
11. Evacuate and replace drier
Frozen Evaporator Coil
1. Faulty thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Thermostat not set properly
3. Insufficient evaporator air
Repair
1. Replace thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Set to driving condition
3. Check for excessive duct hose length, kink or bend.
If you can’t get your Auto AC System to turn on then use this chart to determine if you are low on Freon. Remember that this is a general char and will vary for different makes and model cars and refrigeration units
Have you seen a dash light come on and then headlights dim slightly when blinkers are on, how about a growling noise coming from under the hood. These could be signs of alternator problems, a very simple repair for a professional, but if unattended, can leave you stranded and at the mercy of whatever help happens to be in towing distance.
Here in Central Florida, Pops Auto Electric prides itself on superior service at very reasonable prices, and auto electric like the car’s alternator is a particular specialty. Wherever you are located in the world, find a trusted auto electric specialist like Pops Auto Electric here in Central Florida, because automobile alternators going bad can be a symptom of more complex auto electric problems.
Basically, when the engine is running, an automobile alternator, when functioning properly, provides all electric to the various needs of the automobile, from the operating of the spark plugs to lights, blinkers, radio, ac fan and charging the automobile battery. When you add after market electrical items like effect lighting or a high end speaker system, you must make sure the automobile alternator is rated to handle the extra load.
If you see dimming of lights, bad radio reception, and intermittent warning lights, this is not due to a failing battery, it is most likely a problem with your automobile alternator.
Here are the 5 signs of a failing or insufficient automobile alternator:
1) Warning Light: this light will be red usually and shaped like a battery or the letters ALT or GEN. This light comes on because of an automobile alternator problem or an electrical problem that is effecting the alternator’s ability to charge the battery. If you see this light on, and you are in Central Florida call 407 857 8597 for no cost advice or call a professional auto electric specialist in your area, immediately. This problem will not go away, the longer you wait the less choices you will have.
2) If your lights dim when the ac turns on or goes up and down slightly when the blinker is on, you have an electrical problem. Either the automobile alternator is failing or is insufficient to handle the power requirements of your mode of transportation, call for help before it is too late, the problem will not go away, it will get worse, and then the over strained or failing automobile alternator will simply fail all together.
3) Do you smell burning rubber, here a growling or wining sound, you may have waited too long, get to an auto electric specialist now! When an automobile alternator completely fails, it can seize, which stops the pulley of the serpentine belt (see Pops Auto Electric blog on Serpentine Belt on the previous page) and the belt will fail. If this happens, you are stuck wherever you are, do not attempt to drive the car with a broken serpentine belt, you will overheat and seize the engine. If this has happened to you, don’t worry, if you are in Central Florida call 407 857 8597 and Pops Auto Electric will come get you and fix your problems, you can depend on them.
4) If your car won’t start and you have a relatively new battery, a simple charge is probably not the answer; it is most likely an alternator or electric problem, go to an auto electric specialist in your area, this problem will not go away. If you left your lights on, a mistake we have all made, charge the battery, if the battery has gone dead for no apparent reason, it could be alternator, or improperly wired component, a short or any number of things only an auto electric specialist like Pops Auto Electric is qualified to diagnose.
5) If the battery goes dead but your alternator checks out OK, a professional like Pops Auto Electric, in Orlando Florida, can quickly and efficiently diagnose the problem. Don’t take chances; small electrical problems can lead to major life threatening automobile fires and life threatening situations. Automobile electric issues could mean you or your family may be injured, go to an auto electric specialist now.
If you own a late model car made somewhere on earth, you can bet it probably has a serpentine belt. A serpentine belt is a single ribbed belt that drives all the accessories, A/C, Power Steering, alternator and various other pumps and accessories with just one belt. They should require no maintenance unlike belts on older models called the V-Belt that needed periodic adjusting. Even though the serpentine belt requires no maintenance or adjustments as long as it is in good condition they do need to be inspected often to you replace the belt before it reaches the end of its life and leaves you dead on the road. If it starts to go bad, you can replace your serpentine belt at a time of your choosing and not when the belt decides for you. When a serpentine belt brakes, you lose everything, cooling, ac and alternator, you do not want to let this happen. Checking ribbed drive belts at every oil change, and the position of the self-adjusting mechanism indicator, will insure you catch a bad belt long before it snaps.
The backside of the serpentine drive belt, or the smooth side, usually drives the water pump. If the serpentine belt gets oil soaked or glazed, it will slip and not provide the proper circulation to keep the engine cool. And if there is oil on the serpentine belt, it’s coming from somewhere so you will need to find out where and fix it before putting on a new serpentine drive belt. We suggest calling Pops Auto Electric for help, but do it yourselfer read on.
Look for tears or abrasions. If you see any it means the serpentine drive belt is rubbing a pulley flange or bolt as it winds it way around. This will happen more often as the drive belt gets older. If this happens you may need to file a pulley flange smooth or bend something out of the way. We again recommend a qualified mechanic, for filing engine parts can cause permanent damage if not done correctly.
Also look for pinholes and/or bumps. If you see any it means dirt and debris is getting in between the serpentine drive belt and the pulleys. Turn the belt around and see if there are chunks of the ribs missing. You can crank the engine to expose sections of belt as you inspect. A few, small widely spaced chunks are okay, But if there are many and/or close together, replace the serpentine drive belt. We cannot emphasize strongly enough that inspecting the belt in this manor can endanger your fingers, hundreds of fingers are lost each year but not taking proper safety precautions, do not touch the belt when moving, the groves will grip your fingers and could cause irreparable damage to your person. Hairline cracks are normal, but if they go into the backing, or flat side, of the serpentine drive belt you will need to replace it.
A good rule of thumb for serpentine drive belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart, all around the belt, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be considered as indicative that the belt needs changing. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about halfway through its usable life. Remember, using a qualified auto mechanic shop like Pops Auto Electric in Orlando Florida is inexpensive compared to the expense of replacing engine parts and worse case fingers.
Insulation of the Serpentine belt in Your Automobile
Check the tensioner first
A “good” tensioner arm should exhibit just a slight vibration with about 1/32 in. or less of arm movement. And the belt should run smoothly with no visible vibration. If the tensioner arm exhibits a jerky vibrating motion, the belt vibrates, or the tensioning arm moves 1/4 in., the tensioner is bad.
If your tensioner is bad and it’s one of the more difficult styles to replace, you won’t want to waste your time changing the belt. The shop would just have to remove the belt again to replace the tensioner. So check the tensioner first with these three tests and if it looks like it could be bad contact Pops Auto Electric in Central Florida or a qualified auto repair shop for verification.
The first test is a visual inspection with the engine running to assess the dampening feature of the tensioner. Pop the hood, start the engine and turn on the AC. Then shine a light on the belt tensioner and observe the tensioner arm roller for excessive movement (Photo 1). If it passes the visual test, move on to the “crank” test (Photo 2). The tensioner arm should rotate smoothly during crank and release with no binding. If the travel isn’t smooth, replace the entire tensioner. Next, check the condition of the tensioner arm pulley/roller (Photo 3). If the pulley or roller exhibits any roughness, binding or noise, that is also cause to replace the entire tensioner.
Many tensioners are readily accessible and attach to the engine with a single bolt. To replace that style, simply remove the belt and then the retaining bolt. Pull off the old tensioner, noting the location of the locking pin on the back. Then slide the new unit into place, lining up the locking pin with the hole in the engine. Hand-tighten the bolt and then tighten it with a torque wrench to the factory specifications shown in your shop manual.
How to tell if you need a new serpentine belt
Press the gauge into a belt groove. As long as the gauge sits above the ribs, the belt is good. If it slides down so it’s even with the rib, the belt is worn and must be replaced.
First-generation serpentine belts were made from a nitrile compound that cracked with use. If your belt has cracks in three or more adjacent ribs within a 1-in. span, or has four or more cracks per inch on a single rib, it’s time to replace it. You also need a new belt if you notice any of these conditions: chunks missing from the rib area, torn or frayed fabric, glazing on the belt’s back side or debris trapped in the ribs.
Starting with the 2000 models, carmakers switched from nitrile to ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) belts. EPDM belts last much longer and don’t crack or lose chunks the way nitrile belts do. But they do wear, and that wear is much harder to detect. You can measure EPDM belt wear with a gauge or a smartphone app. Both products are available for free from Gates Corp. (go to gatesprograms.com/beltwear and click on either tool).
In most cases, you’ll want to use the plastic gauge to measure your belt, as shown above. However, if you have a smartphone and enough maneuvering room to shoot a close-up photo (engine off), let technology do the work for you. The app works by analyzing the width of the ribs compared with the width of the grooves.
Always buy premium belts instead of economy grade — you’ll get almost twice the mileage.
The right tools make it a do-it-yourself project
Examine the decal that shows the belt routing. If yours doesn’t have one, draw one before you start the job.
You can replace a serpentine belt with ordinary hand tools. But we don’t recommend it. The spaces are often tight and the belt-driven devices difficult to reach. Using a serpentine belt tool to loosen the tensioner and a belt placement tool to position the belt, we completed the entire job in less than 15 minutes, without breaking a sweat (or a knuckle). The serpentine belt tool comes with an assortment of sockets, making it the perfect choice for all the cars in your family. The two extension bars can be configured to reach the tensioner at the proper angle, and the extra-long handle provides maximum leverage so you can release the pressure easily. The belt placement tool allowed us to remove and properly place the new belt without reaching down into the pulley area.
Note: If your car requires the removal of an engine mount in order to remove the serpentine belt, or the belt’s just nearly impossible to get at, we recommend you leave the job to a professional.
Want to make this problem go away with one simple phone call?
How to Choose the Right Auto Window Tinting in Central Florida?
There are hundreds of shops and individuals offering auto window tinting servers in Central Florida, how do you know who to choose, who will give you the best material and the best instillation available? More importantly will the installer be available after the sale if something is not right, or needs to be adjusted?
1) Does the auto window tint company have a physical location in Central Florida and how long have they been in business at that location? A good tint shop will be established, and thrive despite the competition, reputation and location are key here. Pops Auto Electric has provided auto window tinting services in Central Florida for many years from the same location on the corner of Orange and Holden, and business is thriving!
2) Ask about the types of tint the shop carries, and the warrantee they offer their clients. A good auto window tinting shop should provide choice and specialty products to give you the look and function you are looking for, not push you into one single product that they happen to have available. Your happiness and satisfaction should be their main concern. Remember to purchase only from a shop that offers a good warrantee for both the auto window tinting and the workmanship.
3) Ask the tint shop if they are a full service auto repair and restoration center or just selling auto window tinting out of a small office and a parking lot. Ask to see examples and reviews by others that have used their services over the years. Remember a good full service shop should be willing to spend time with you and answer your questions; you should feel comfortable that they want your business, are in Central Florida to stay and will not only do a good job but still be in Central Florida after the auto window tinting job has been completed.
4) Make sure to get a price quote before the work is done, a good Central Florida auto window tinting shop like Pop’s Auto Electric will be happy to provide a detailed estimate and fully discuss it with you before and after the instillation.
5) It is important to use a professional Central Florida auto window tinting shop, that sets appointments and uses the latest equipment to tint your car. A tent in a parking lot somewhere that has a sing “drop ins welcome” is never a good sign of a professional and permanent auto window tinting service center.
At Pop’s Auto Electric, we have been tinting windows for many many years, we have seen the changes in the industry and can fix you up with the best possible material and instillation for your car. Auto window tinting is one of our specialties here at Pop’s Auto Electric of Central Florida. Remember our motto; “Our Passion is Cars…Our Obsession is Service”
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Auto AC Basics; How does Auto AC Work, How do I Know if all is Well?
Summer is around the corner, is your auto AC working properly? The first thing to understand about auto AC basics, before attempting “easy fixes” from the retail giants, is how auto AC works, and how you might be able to fix or improve Auto AC performance.
Part 1: Understanding Auto AC Basics; Car Air Conditioning
It is important to realize that auto AC basics is based on a refrigerator in a different layout. It’s designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, the following explanations of auto AC should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be. This should also help you work with the right pieces if fixing it yourself or it will help you to talk intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
•Compressor:
This compresses is another basic part of auto AC basics and circulates the refrigerant in the system of the auto AC •Refrigerant: On modern cars, this is usually a substance called R-134a, while older cars have r-12 Freon in the auto AC, which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, Freon also requires a license to handle. The refrigerant carries the heat.
•Condenser:
The condenser is part of auto AC basics that changes the phase of the refrigerant from gas to liquid and expels heat removed from the car through the auto AC.
•Expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles):
This part of auto AC basics is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to simultaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it within the auto AC. •Evaporator: This transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, which is a vital part of the auto AC in cooling your car.
•Receiver/dryer: This functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants from the auto AC system. Understand the air conditioning process of you auto AC is much the same as any refrigerant process. In a nutshell, the compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant in the auto AC system is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the “latent heat of vaporization”). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve in the auto AC system to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car’s blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle within the auto AC again and again.
Part 2 of Auto AC Basics: Fixing the auto AC
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out of your auto AC (meaning there’s nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling the auto AC system apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there’s a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Another part of auto AC basics; find the low-side valve for the auto AC and with a special gauge check the PSI level.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Do not use anything else to poke in the auto AC valve to see if coolant will come out, this is illegal and one of the auto AC basics. It’s called venting. Make sure the compressor is turning.
•Start the car, turn on the auto AC and look under the hood. The auto AC compressor is generally a pump-like thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire, this is part of auto AC basics and will be similar on every car. The pulley on the front of the auto AC compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged.
•If the auto AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor’s clutch is not engaging, you have run into one of the auto AC basics. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem (see Pops Auto Electric on Auto Electric Repair), a broken auto AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn’t enough refrigerant in the auto AC system). Look for other things that can go wrong. The other sorts of problems that the auto AC might be experiencing include: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure in the auto AC and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, complete with instructions.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Auto AC basics; do not overfill the auto AC coolant! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will not improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance in real-time as it adds refrigerant. When the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant from the auto AC until the performance peaks again.
Tips
•Auto AC basics; if you suspect bad wiring, most compressors have a wire leading to the electric clutch. Find the connector in the middle of that wire, and unplug it. Take a length of wire and run it from the compressor’s wire to the plus (+) side of your battery. If you hear a loud CLACK, the electric clutch for the auto AC is fine and you should check the car’s wiring and fuses. If you get nothing, the electric clutch is bad and the auto AC compressor will have to be replaced. Ideally, if you can do this test while the car is running, you can see if the hub spins. Take care to keep fingers and loose clothes away from moving pulleys and belts. That would rule out an auto AC clutch that actuates properly but then slips so badly it won’t generate pressure.
•Auto AC basics 2; the auto AC system will have a light oil in it. •If your car has an auto AC, leak even though the drain pipe is clean, some water may have entered the AC system during a drive through rain.
•Another possible replacement refrigerant is HC12a which is used quite a bit more in Europe. This is another one of the auto AC basics as It performs better than R-134a or R12. It is more flammable. HC12a is illegal in many U.S. states, including Arkansas, Arizona, Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Iowa, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Washington, Wisconsin, and the District of Columbia. HC12a has a lesser environmental impact than R12 or R134a, but since HC12a contains hydrocarbons, it could contribute to volatile organic compound (VOC) emissions. This substance must be ordered on the Internet as local shops do not seem to stock it. The issue is that shops will not work on a car that has other refrigerants in it. Special equipment is needed for each type of refrigerant’s recovery. Standard R12 or R134a is a safer choice for any auto AC system.
•Sometimes the problem is not always about the refrigerant, or any of the auto AC basics. There may be a problem with heat radiation from nearby engine which is very hot and decrease the AC efficiency and performance. You can try to wrap / isolate the cold auto AC pipe near the engine to stop engine heat radiation from affecting the pipe and increase auto ac performance overall. Seem complicated, we can help. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix the auto AC basics and the more critical problems as well. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem with auto AC basics, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible.
Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida
407-857-8579
If you feel you have the expertise to continue repairing your auto AC basics yourself; we do feel we must list the following warnings:
Warnings
•You may not find a repair facility that will simply not top off the auto AC basics system, if they suspect that you need to repair a leak first. If you repaired the leaks and failed components yourself, it is legal to recharge the auto AC basics system with 134 without a license, but not R-12. However, getting a license to handle R-12 is easy online, and runs about $20.)
•Look out for moving fan blades and fan belts!
•If you have any reason to suspect that your auto AC refrigerant has leaked out completely (the auto AC DIY pressure gauge you bought at the parts store reads 0 psi; the compressor won’t engage because it may be sensing no pressure in the system; you checked the gauge and have no PSI level), then you are best off taking it to a professional unless you are familiar with what you are doing. As a general rule of thumb, you are probably not familiar enough if you are reading this article. The reason for this is that a completely depleted auto AC basics refrigerant system has no pressure to keep air and moisture from coming in through wherever the refrigerant leaked out. Air and moisture are possibly the two biggest enemies of an auto AC system. The ways in which they can do harm are outside the scope of this article, but suffice it to say that it is not okay to have a significant amount of either air or moisture in the auto AC lines. The receiver/dryer unit must be replaced in a case like this as you can almost guarantee that it has absorbed enough moisture to be completely useless, and before refilling the system it must be evacuated (pulling a vacuum on the system, effectively removing nearly all air and moisture from inside) with the proper equipment, which few auto AC Dyers are likely to have access or knowledge to use. Let a professional handle it, and you may get away with paying for a fixed leak and an evacuate/recharge of the auto AC system. Try to fix the auto AC yourself, and a few months down the road you might wind up having to pay for the same evacuate/recharge service, plus replacement of a seized compressor, as well as a new condenser, evaporator, and expansion valve/orifice tube because the compressor sent shards of metal throughout the entire auto AC basics system when the compressor died.
•HC12 and R-134A are non-flammable auto AC fluids at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure, but both may combust at high pressure and temperature under certain conditions (in contact with certain reactive metals), again, part of auto AC basics. Both also displace oxygen, so do not release a lot of the gas in a small, non-vented area under penalty of asphyxiation.
•Stay away from major leaks of refrigerant. As it vents the auto AC system, it will get cold enough to freeze your skin, resulting in frostbite, this is another of the auto AC basics. •Never connect auto AC refrigerant cans, oil or leak-detector cans to the “high pressure side” of the system, part of auto AC basics. This is often marked with H or HIGH, or a red connector cap. Cans can explode, and that would hurt. •Checking for refrigerant leaking from the auto AC system by poking something in the fitting and looking for venting may be illegal if it releases refrigerant into the atmosphere. (Please don’t do this with R-12 especially!) While it is not illegal to top off a leaking system, you must check your local regulations, as in some cases there is a state or local law against it, due to the possible emissions. Venting auto AC refrigerant, even R-134a, is illegal in the United States, so act accordingly, this is law regarding auto AC basics. •Be extremely cautious about converting your old R-12 auto AC system to R-134a. The R-134a conversion kits sold at Auto Parts stores and even Walmart, are called “Black Death Kits” by some auto AC repairmen. Frequently part of auto AC basics, the new R-134a refrigerant will not circulate the R-12 oil and you will burn up your compressor. The R-12 mineral oil has chlorine contaminants that will destroy the R-134a PAG or POE special oil. The only way to reliably convert auto AC from R-12 to R-134a is to remove the compressor and flush out all the old oil with the new type of oil; then replace the old Receiver-Dryer or Accumulator with a new one; then flush out all the lines, the evaporator, and the auto AC condenser with special cleaner then vacuum to a steady vacuum; and finally charge with 70-80%, (by weight) of the original R-12 weight, with R-134a; and expect poorer cooling ability. It is much easier to keep the old R-12 auto AC system running with R-12 that is readily available via eBay. You must have a license to buy and sell R-12, again auto AC basics.
◦Note that the above warning is controversial. Some repairmen claim to have converted hundreds of vehicles from R-12 to R134a without any problems or issues or failures after conversion.
Seem complicated, we can help with all the auto AC basics and beyond. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible. Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
back side of the engine, beneath the intake manifold, making access difficult from above. The best method to remove the old filter is to use a “cup type” oil filter wrench. Once you have this wrench, it fits the flutes on the end of the filter, use an extension of appropriate length, and a ratchet handle; this assembly is wormed down through the very narrow space between intake manifold and firewall and onto the filter.
When doing an oil change for Honda Civic the oil drain plug can be a source of problems. The stock plug uses an aluminum crush washer to seal against leaks, which must be torqued fairly tightly (the same system is used on the manual transmission fill and drain plugs). Contrary to occasional practice, the washer should never be reused except as a temporary measure in an emergency, as it then requires even more torque to properly seal. Given the relatively high torque needed to properly seal the plug, it is not unusual for the plug to be over tightened and the threads stripped; luckily, it is usually the plug which is damaged and can be replaced, rather than the more complex process of fixing damaged threads in the oil pan. Some enterprising mechanics substitute a nylon washer, as is sometimes found on other cars, rather than the aluminum washer; the torque required for proper sealing is greatly lessened, but the nylon has a tendency to soften when hot and creep out from under the plug, so that leaks develop over time, particularly in warmer temperatures. 
One possible solution is to install one of the oil drain valves, available either from Fumoto or Fram. These take the place of the stock drain plug, by threading into the oil pan, and utilize a valve which is turned by hand to drain the engine oil. While tapping the drain hole and installing a larger plug, or installing a self-tapping plug are acceptable, they are not the recommended solution, as these types of plugs tend develop leaks over a short period of time. Also, the metal shavings created by the tap may become suspended in the remaining oil, causing premature engine wear. The proper repair, if the threads for the drain plug in the oil pan become stripped, is to replace the engine oil pan altogether. Simply stated, oil change for Honda Civic is no easy task, it can cause serious damage to the engine if preformed improperly and extra experience to repair the damage you have done. Complications can arise from oil changes preformed by a previous owner, in the best case situation; you need specialized tools and the knowledge that only comes from years of experience.
