Pops Auto Electric & AC of Orlando Florida Explains Oil Change for Honda Civic
Filter access
First step when you want to do an oil change for Honda Civic with the D16 engine, the oil filter is located on the back side of the engine, beneath the intake manifold, making access difficult from above. The best method to remove the old filter is to use a “cup type” oil filter wrench. Once you have this wrench, it fits the flutes on the end of the filter, use an extension of appropriate length, and a ratchet handle; this assembly is wormed down through the very narrow space between intake manifold and firewall and onto the filter.
4 reasons uninstalling an oil filter for Honda Civic can become complicated:
1) An oil filter has previously been installed which has a different size than the stock Honda filter. Some of the national oil-change chains will often install what they have and make it fit.
2) The oil filter may refuse to be removed may be because of over tightening when installed
3) Too long a time lapse since the last installation of the filter
4) In some cases use of oil leak sealant additives, which can cause the rubber seal on the filter to adhere tightly to the block this is by design, to cause rubber gaskets to seal more tightly and stop an oil leak.
Any of the problems above may give you pause before attempting an oil change for Honda Civic. Many simply do not change the Oil Filter, a very big mistake. We at Pops Auto Electric can quickly, efficiently and at a price that will not break the bank, handle any of these problems. Pops Auto Electric is a full service shop, we are not a chain and we want to help you keep that Honda Civic on the road for many years. When it comes to customizing paint restoration even installing power windows, we will be here to help.
Let’s assume you got the oil filter off and have not stripped the engine attachment threads when doing an oil change for Honda Civic:
Oil Draining Plug
When doing an oil change for Honda Civic the oil drain plug can be a source of problems. The stock plug uses an aluminum crush washer to seal against leaks, which must be torqued fairly tightly (the same system is used on the manual transmission fill and drain plugs). Contrary to occasional practice, the washer should never be reused except as a temporary measure in an emergency, as it then requires even more torque to properly seal. Given the relatively high torque needed to properly seal the plug, it is not unusual for the plug to be over tightened and the threads stripped; luckily, it is usually the plug which is damaged and can be replaced, rather than the more complex process of fixing damaged threads in the oil pan. Some enterprising mechanics substitute a nylon washer, as is sometimes found on other cars, rather than the aluminum washer; the torque required for proper sealing is greatly lessened, but the nylon has a tendency to soften when hot and creep out from under the plug, so that leaks develop over time, particularly in warmer temperatures. One possible solution is to install one of the oil drain valves, available either from Fumoto or Fram. These take the place of the stock drain plug, by threading into the oil pan, and utilize a valve which is turned by hand to drain the engine oil. While tapping the drain hole and installing a larger plug, or installing a self-tapping plug are acceptable, they are not the recommended solution, as these types of plugs tend develop leaks over a short period of time. Also, the metal shavings created by the tap may become suspended in the remaining oil, causing premature engine wear. The proper repair, if the threads for the drain plug in the oil pan become stripped, is to replace the engine oil pan altogether. Simply stated, oil change for Honda Civic is no easy task, it can cause serious damage to the engine if preformed improperly and extra experience to repair the damage you have done. Complications can arise from oil changes preformed by a previous owner, in the best case situation; you need specialized tools and the knowledge that only comes from years of experience.
Call us; we are here to help you with oil change for Honda Civic, with a very special price.
Pops Auto Electric & AC, a full service auto repair shop
Symptoms and Common Problems of an Automotive Air Conditioning System
In Florida, A broken automotive air conditioning system can be almost as bad as not having a car in the first place. Yet another hot, humid Florida summer is suddenly upon us and we can’t put off automotive air conditioning system problems another day. Suddenly having an automotive air conditioning system that works, and works well, is of the utmost importance to your very existence. It is almost imposable to arrive at a meeting, the mall, or a friend’s house sweating and flushed by stale, hot car air, and in Central Florida, downright unhealthy!
Having an automotive air conditioner system that works only part way may get by in a northern city with 3 months of hot weather, but faulty air conditioners can cause bigger damage to your car down the road if left unattended in an area with a full 8 months of truly hot weather.
An air conditioner running low on Freon, on dirty coolant or on faulty electrical wiring can end up ruining the entire air conditioning compressor (much more expensive than a simple recharge or flush). An automotive air conditioning systems are connected to the rest of the vehicle’s electrical system, meaning a surge or problem with the air conditioner can cause problems with the rest of the car, causing poor idling, fuel inefficiencies or drained batteries, or much worse – prematurely spent alternator and serpentine belt.
Generally, automotive air conditioning systems are fast, easy and inexpensive to repair if handled correctly with the right equipment or by a professional with the same. Most automotive air conditioning system problems are coolant-related, and may often be as simple as getting a coolant flush, refill or fixed leak. Do not be fooled by the “you can fix the leak yourself” cans available at your local Wal-Mart and Big Lots, you will more than likely destroy your compressor, do not use these products!
With that said, your automotive air conditioning system is not one of those devices most technicians recommend fixing at home anyway, unless you’re a qualified mechanic. Most do-it-yourself instructions for fixing broken auto air conditioners contain scary phrases, like “it is illegal to release Freon gas into the atmosphere” and “be sure to wear proper hand and eye protection”. Plus, there are many different things that could be wrong with the car’s air conditioning system, which if handled by a professional could be a simple fix, yet handled wrong could turn into a repair costing literally thousands.
Pop’s Auto Electric and AC has compiled a list of most often found problems associated with automotive air conditioning systems:
1) Coolant and/or Refrigerant Leaks:
This generally applies to older, less computerized vehicles. Refrigerant can run out on its own over the course of time, or leaks may have developed in the car’s AC compressor or one of its hoses. If your vehicle has never had a coolant flush or refill and it’s pushing 75,000 miles or more, you need a coolant flush and ac tune up.
2) Noisy AC Compressor:
Noises that occur when your car’s AC is turned on can come from minor engine noises or hoses, but they could also be symptoms of problems with the compressor. If the problem is the AC compressor, it will likely have to be replaced. If you do not have the noise looked at and it turns out to be a faulty compressor, what could have been just a compressor replacement, can turn into a whole system replacement as pieces of the disintegrating compressor are spread throughout the entire automotive air conditioning system, if it is to completely come apart.
3) Fluctuating Temperatures:
When a car’s AC blows out air with sporadic temperatures, it’s often likely that moisture is building up in one of the hoses or assemblies, causing ice to accumulate and clog. Removing ice from a car’s air conditioning assembly is a short and easy procedure. Delaying this repair, can damage the dryer, compressor and lead to much higher repair cost.
4) Faulty Car Electrical System:
pops auto and electric
A weak car battery can cause your auto air conditioner to function weakly or not at all. Car batteries need to have enough voltage to trigger the AC compressor, and while it may be strong enough to run the rest of your car, it may still be too weak to run your car’s air conditioning. Electric is one of Pop’s Auto Electric & AC’s particular specialties, no problem with this one!
5) Bacteria Buildup:
Funky smells emanating from your automotive air conditioning system vents are likely caused by a bacteria buildup in the evaporator. Pops Auto Electric & AC will have the proper tools to flush the evaporator out quickly and without much cost. Your car will smell clean and fresh again without that pine sent thing, we like to make you smile!
So what are some basic ways to tell if any of these are a problem for your car’s air conditioning unit? Here’s a basic checklist of symptoms which indicate something is wrong with your auto AC:
If the AC system doesn’t produce cold air
If the fan or blower doesn’t work
If the fan, blower or AC is noisy when turned on
If one of the dashboard controls malfunctions
If the vent, car heater or defroster are having problems working correctly
If the air conditioning smells funny
If the car has a tendency to overheat
If the air filter or dryer have not been replaced, or if the AC has never been serviced and the car is over 75,000 miles old
If one of these symptoms applies to your automotive air conditioning system, it’s probably time to have it inspected by a qualified mechanic at Pop’s Auto Electric & AC here in Central Florida. Caught early, most auto air conditioning problems are fairly easy and inexpensive to fix. It is worth the trip to come to an honest mechanic, a shop that specializes in automotive air conditioning systems and has a good on line reputation is your best bet; don’t take chances and beat the heat!
Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
Pops Auto Electric Explains the Effects of Resistance in an Auto Electric System
Resistance (R) in the Ohm’s law equation is what the electricity works against in an electrical circuit. Resistance is measured in ohms (Ω). Resistance can come in many forms, some good, some not so good.
Every electrical circuit needs some form of resistance. If not, you have a short circuit, and we know what happens if we have one of those. Resistance can be as simple as a light bulb or as complex as a PCM. Both create a certain amount of resistance that is accounted for in its circuit.
A few key things can affect resistance:
One is heat; the higher the temperature, the higher the resistance. The reason for this is that a heated substance has a lot of molecular movement, which affects electron flow. The harder it is for electrons to flow, the more resistance you have. That’s the layman’s definition of resistance.
Distance can also affect resistance; the longer a wire is, the more resistance it has. Think back to our car with a tank of gas. We’re going to use more gas the farther we have to travel to get back to the negative battery post. The size or amount of conductive material that the electricity passes through can also affect resistance. A wide-open path with a very conductive material has little resistance. Conversely, a small wire with a not-so-conductive material has more resistance.
The takeaway here is that resistance can be good or bad depending on where you find it. You need the resistance of the load of an electric circuit in order for the circuit to function, but if you have unwanted resistance, the circuit will not function as intended.
Testing Resistance
Checking a circuit’s resistance over a voltage drop test can be risky for an amateur. The main reason is because when you’re doing a voltage drop test, you get to see what’s happening on a live circuit. Resistance checks are done on open circuits that are isolated from the rest of the circuit.
When doing resistance checks, you must remove what you’re checking from the circuit first in order to do your resistance check; otherwise, you might damage the circuit or your meter. It’s for that reason that resistance tests are found to be inconclusive sometimes. Sure, there are times when testing resistance is the only way to test a circuit within the auto electric system, but when diagnosing a problem in a circuit, a voltage drop test is best for the amateur.
Case in point: ignition coil testing. Manufacturers list the resistance that should be seen at the primary and secondary windings of an ignition coil. It is difficult at best to find a bad ignition coil this way.
Electrical engineers have found a coil can have good resistance readings and still be bad. The reason for this is that the windings inside the coil are made of very thin wire. You can have a small break in this wire and the resistance will still indicate everything is fine, but the minute the coil is under load, it fails because of the open or short in the windings.
On the other hand, if checking a coolant temp sensor, resistance testing is the way to go. Be sure to use resistance checks wisely when trying to find the effects of resistance in an auto electric system. Why not call Pop’s Auto Electric and solve auto electric system problem with the industry experts. There is a reason that other shops send electrical problems to Pop’s Auto Electric.
This works for every electrical circuit according to Ohm’s law. Once you know the circuit, you know where the gas (voltage) is going and you can measure it at different points in the circuit to get a good idea of how the circuit is operating.
One last example that might give you some practical insight: Say you have an electrical connector with some corrosion in it. You can’t see the corrosion, but you suspect it’s there. You can take a voltage reading before and after the connector to check the voltage drop across the connector. You should see close to zero volts. If you see a higher voltage than expected, you’ve found increased resistance in the circuit.
Voltage drop testing is your best friend when it comes to diagnosing automotive electric circuits. At Pop’s Auto Electric, we are experts in all forms of voltage testing. In fact local shops call us to trace, diagnose and fix difficult automotive electrical problems. Call Pop’s Auto Electric today for a free estimate.
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the automotive electric system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those problems now!
Contact Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
Pops Auto Electric, Explains the Ups and Downs of Amperes
Amperes
Amperes, amps, or current is the measure of the flow of electricity through a given circuit, and vital in diagnosing automotive electrical problems. It’s the (I) in the Ohm’s law equation above. Amps are different than voltage in that amps are the same throughout the entire circuit, unlike voltage, which starts out high then drops to zero when it reaches the negative battery post. Amps are the same at the beginning and the end of a circuit. If you have five amps at the beginning of the circuit, you’ll have five amps at the end of the circuit.
To continue with our automotive analogy, we’ll equate amps to speed. The higher the amps, the faster the speed. The number of amps a circuit uses is dictated by the load and the resistance in the circuit. The bigger the load, the more amps a circuit will use. A starter motor will use a lot more amps than a window motor because the window motor will not need as many amps to run as a starter motor would. This next fact about amps gets a little weird. The lower the resistance in a circuit, the higher the amp flow.
Sticking with our speed analogy, the more amps you have in a circuit, the faster things flow. Remember in the first blog we stated that if you had a short circuit you’d blow fuses and possibly burn things up? That was talking about amps.
If you have unrestricted electron flow with no load, amps get out of control. It’s like a speeding locomotive that goes off the track. Something is going to break. With automotive electrical problems, it’s usually the weakest link, which should be the fuse. Ever notice how fuses are rated in amps, not voltage? Now you know why.
One last little factoid about amps: You can have high voltage in a circuit and it won’t be that harmful to you. It’ll wake you up for sure, but it won’t kill you. However, if you have just a few amps to go with that high voltage, watch out. As little as 0.2 amps mixed with the right amount of voltage can kill you.
In fact, it might even be less than that depending on the circumstances. It’s not the voltage that hurts you; it’s the amps. It doesn’t take too many amps to knock you on your butt, so be extra careful when dealing with amps. This is why, if you don’t fully understand automotive electric problems, leave it to the professionals, call Pops Auto Electric now. To use another common analogy, if volts are pressure, amps are intensity or volume. You can have lots of pressure, but when you add intensity, things can get lively.
Ampere Testing
Professionals don’t often do amp testing when dealing with automotive circuits, other than when performing a parasitic draw test. There are two ways you can test amps in an automotive circuit when diagnosing automotive electrical problems. The first is with an inductive amp meter.
This is a tool that measures the magnetic field around a wire. The circuit has to be live for this to work. Say you’re looking to test the amps going to the starter via the positive battery cable. Place your amp meter around the positive battery cable and engage the starter to take your reading. You won’t get a reading if you’re not cranking the starter.
The other way to measure amps is by tying into the circuit directly, or tying in ‘series’. This means you open the circuit somewhere and insert your amp meter. All the amps in the circuit need to flow through your meter in order to test this way.
This can be tricky, and many a DVOM has suffered from improper amp testing. Don’t worry; most of them are fused, so if you mess up, hopefully you’ll be able to replace a fuse and be back in business. So to be safe when checking high amp circuits, use an inductive lead instead of connecting in series, or simply make an appointment with Pops Auto Electric and avoid problems. Remember, be careful when dealing with amps.
This works for every electrical circuit according to Ohm’s law. Once you know the circuit, you know where the gas (voltage) is going and you can measure it at different points in the circuit to get a good idea of how the circuit is operating.
One last example that might give you some practical insight: Say you have an electrical connector with some corrosion in it. You can’t see the corrosion, but you suspect it’s there. You can take a voltage reading before and after the connector to check the voltage drop across the connector. You should see close to zero volts. If you see a higher voltage than expected, you’ve found increased resistance in the circuit.
Voltage drop testing is your best friend when it comes to diagnosing automotive electric circuits. At Pop’s Auto Electric, we are experts in all forms of voltage testing. In fact local shops call us to trace, diagnose and fix difficult automotive electrical problems. Call Pop’s Auto Electric today for a free estimate.
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the automotive electric system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those problems now!
Contact Info
Address:
Pops Auto Electric & AC
4704 S. Orange Ave
Orlando, FL 32806
Phone:
407.857.8579
407.420.1244
Fax:
407.857.6535
Simply mention the coupon when calling from the website
Brake System Repair & Maintenance; What is the Process
Simply put, brakes are what make your car stop and. More importantly, your brakes help keep you, your family, and everyone around you safe. Proper brake system repair and maintenance of your automotive braking system will help you avoid accidents as well as costly repairs. Additionally, you should have your brake system checked every time you have your tires rotated and brake system repair handled by certified professionals when needed.
Here are some warning signs that you need to have your brakes serviced:
A high pitched squealing sound.
This is a safety feature on modern brakes to let you know the pads are wearing thin and need to be replaced. A sure sign that you need brake system repair work before things get worse.
Sounds of grinding metal.
This means that the pads have been completely worn out and need to be replaced immediately to avoid damage to other parts of the brake system. This is a sign that you need brake system repair, and you need attention quickly or you will destroy your rotors, a much more expensive brake system repair process.
Lowered responsiveness and fading.
Air in the brakes lines or leaking fluid will cause the brakes to “catch” with the pedal closer to the floorboard.
Vibration and pulsations when braking.
This can be caused by warped rotors or the tires being out of balance. When rotors are warped, the brake pads cannot fully grip and braking will not be as effective. Brake system repair or maintenance is recommended as soon as possible.
Pulling to one side.
This can be caused by the brakes on one side not gripping as firmly as the other or from debris in the brake lines.
Parking brake sticks.
This is an indication the brakes are not fully disengaging and can cause extra wear on your rear brakes. Brake system repair is recommended before the situation worsens, brakes are one thing on your car you can not ignore.
Pop’s Auto Electric and AC technicians are trained and certified in brake system repair, service, inspection and maintenance of the following:
All hydraulic components including lines, hoses, cylinders and calipers
Brake fluid checked for age and containments
Rotors and drums inspected for thickness and damage
Power brake boosters
Emergency / parking brake
Anti lock, disc and drum brakes
Call Pops Auto Electric today for any repair work, but call right now if you experience any of the brake system repair signs listed above, save your families life, fix those brakes!
Pops Auto Electric & AC Make Sense Out of Automotive Trouble Lights
Automotive trouble lights or dash lights have been around for many years, but the messages are different colors shapes, sizes – just what do they mean? The following list of warning lights (automotive trouble lights) are the most common lights used by auto manufacturers. Not all automotive trouble lights are universal. Always refer to your owner’s manual when you’re not 100% sure what the light indicates.
Many automotive trouble lights indicate that a fault has occurred inside the vehicle’s system, but it doesn’t pinpoint the item or system that has failed. In these cases, a code reader or scan tool can help determine the part that needs to be replaced. If an automotive trouble light on your dash is on, visit Pops Auto Electric & AC to get the best information to help keep your vehicle running in top condition.
Check Engine or Malfunction automotive trouble light (MIL):
Indicates the engine computer has set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). Usually requires diagnosis with a professional scan tool. Learn the top five reasons why your check engine light is illuminated.
Battery/Charging Alert:
Indicates voltage level is below normal level and the vehicle’s charging system is not functioning properly. Check battery terminals, alternator belt, and battery condition.
Coolant Temp Warning:
This automotive trouble light indicates temperature has exceeded normal limits. Check coolant level, fan operation, radiator cap, coolant leaks.
Transmission Temperature:
Transmission is operating at higher than optimum temperature as transmission fluid is hotter than normal. Check transmission fluid level and engine coolant level.
Oil Pressure Warning:
If this automotive trouble light stays lit, it indicates loss of oil pressure. Immediately check oil level and pressure.
Oil Change Reminder:
Indicates that oil life has expired. This is monitored by the ECM; the interval can be mileage or a combination of readings taken by the ECM. The reset procedure is listed in the owner’s manual. Some vehicles require the use of special tools to reset the automotive trouble light.
Service Vehicle Soon:
Typically indicates a lighting or other electrical problem that is controlled by the BCM (body control module). Check all lights (head lights, turn signals, brake lights, and hazard lights). This symbol may also be used to warn driver of a traction control problem, or a communication problem between modules.
TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System):
If your car is equipped with tire sensors this automotive trouble light indicates the tire pressure monitoring system has found a tire with low air pressure or there may be a sensor malfunction. Check tire pressure. Some vehicles will allow manual reset of TPMS warning light and others will require professional diagnosis. Refer to owner’s manual.
Brake System Automotive Trouble Light:
Indicates one of three possible conditions: parking brake is on; problem with the braking system/brake fluid is low, or ABS problem. Check brake fluid and make sure the parking brake is fully released. If the problem is in the ABS system, it may need a professional diagnosis.
Reduced Power Warning:
Indicates Engine Computer has limited engine power output. The ECM has many levels of reduced power depending on what component has failed in its control system. Usually requires diagnosis with a professional scan tool.
ABS Automotive Trouble Light:
Indicates that the Anti-lock Brake computer has set a code and needs professional diagnosis.
Gas Cap:
The check gas cap automotive trouble light indicates that the gas cap is not tightened properly. If not addressed, quite often the Check Engine Light will also illuminate.
Cruise Control:
Indicates that cruise control is set during driving.
ESP Fault:
Indicates that there is a problem with the vehicle’s traction control/anti-skid or electronic stability system.
If the symbol lights momentarily it may mean that the ignition switch is locked and will need the proper transponder-equipped key to re-start. If the symbol is visible when the vehicle is on, then it typically indicates a malfunction in the security system.
Lamp Out:
Indicates that there is an exterior light on the vehicle that is not functioning properly.
Traction Control or ESP:
Illuminates when the vehicle’s traction control/anti-skid or electronic stability system is in use. This automotive trouble light is usually an indicator that conditions are slippery.
Door Ajar:
Indicates that a door (including hood and trunk) is not closed. Open and close all doors, including hood and trunk. If vehicle is left in this condition overnight it can drain the battery.
Overdrive Light:
This symbol indicates that the vehicle’s overdrive system has been manually turned off. Typically the overdrive system is controlled by an on/off switch.
Airbag Fault:
If this automotive trouble light stays illuminated after starting, it indicates that the vehicle has found a fault in the airbag system and the computer has set a code. Professional repair of the supplemental restraint system is highly recommended.
Washer Fluid Reminder:
Indicates washer fluid is low. Fill washer fluid reservoir. The cap has a symbol that looks like a windshield. Some vehicles have separate reservoirs for front and rear window washers.
Fog Lamp:
Indicates that the vehicle’s front fog lamps are illuminated.
One thing is for sure, if you have one of the automotive trouble lights shining, you are in danger of more serious damage to your car if you don’t get what every is indicated fixed. Contact a professional, contact Pops Auto Electric & AC now for assistance!
Use caution when working around radiator & heater, hoses and coolant. They can be very hot. Never open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, antifreeze / water can spray out. Use of safety goggles is suggested when trouble shooting car heater problems.
TIP: With a rag or glove to protect your hands from being burned, gently squeeze radiator hose to check for pressure before opening the radiator cap.
A few tips troubleshooting your car heater.
The most common problem is low engine coolant level and/or low engine temperature. Temperature from the car heater outlets should be 130 degrees or more with the fan on high after the car has warmed up.
In cars five years old or newer is the most common problem is a faulty engine thermostat.
The older the vehicle, the more likely problems are the car heater core and or multiple other problems.
A car heater core works like the car radiator. Coolant from the engine circulates through the core, air blows through the core and into the passenger compartment. Heater cores can become plugged, and may require flushing or replacement. Two hoses go from the the engine to the heater core, and can develop pin-hole leaks that only show up under pressure, as when the engine is hot.
Tracking it down:
If your vehicle has a temperature gauge, check it to see if it is in the normal range. To check the temperature yourself, you can use a metal case candy thermometer placed into the filler on the radiator when the engine is COLD. Start the car and let it warm up, the temperature in the radiator should be around 180 degrees on older cars, up to around 205 on newer ones. Be careful, the engine may start to boil over if you leave it running too long with the cap off.. Keep face and hands away from opening, and wear protection for eyes and hands.
If the engine temperature and fluid level are correct, the next most common problem is poor circulation through the car heater core. With the motor running and at full operating temperature, CAREFULLY feel the heater hoses. (Use of a rag may help protect hands) Both hoses should be similar in temperature. If one hose is considerably cooler then the car heater is restricted. Flushing the heater works sometimes but replacement is often necessary.
Depending on the vehicle, the temperature control lever may control a water valve in series with the car heater core, or an air door that mixes hot and cold air. The lever may operate via wire cable or vacuum controls. There can be problems in the control valve, cable, vacuum line, or vacuum diaphragm ( sometimes called a vacuum motor ) that controls air doors.
Water pumps can have insufficient flow. Restriction in heater hose connections at the intake or water pump will slow the flow through the car heater. The antifreeze – water mixture can effect heat transfer.
Remember for good heat you need hot water and air flow so start with the basics and you’ll most likely find the problem. Car heater cores on some cars can be difficult to replace, taking your vehicle to a good radiator repair shop may be in order. Pop’s Auto Electric and AC in Orlando Florida are experts in all types of automotive car heater repair. Call them now for a free estimate, always the best price and the best service.
Seem complicated, we can help. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible. Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
Checking Auto AC System for Freon Levels and Problems In Orlando Florida
There are many parts to an Auto AC System, and here in Florida the Auto AC System is in use 365 days a year. In Orlando Florida Pops Auto Electric is the most reliable place to get your Auto AC System repaired quickly, correctly and at a reasonable rate. We are going to offer a series of blogs on the different parts of an Auto AC System that can go wrong.
The first area of concern, and the easiest fix is low Freon, but be aware, low Freon can be a symptom, and if you don’t know what you are doing, you can seriously damage other parts of you Auto AC System, cause more work and expense than to have a professional do it in the first place.
That said, here is everything you need to know to check your Freon, and charge the system like a pro. Please note that we suggest professional equipment for this job, and remind you that using inexpensive cans from discount stores, may seriously damage your Auto AC System.
Step 1: Freon check
You will need a set of professional manifold gauges to check you Freon pressure.
Here are some general guideline for Auto AC System pressures and temperatures based on ambient outside temperature. Remember that these are a guideline and your actual Auto AC System temperatures and pressures will vary depending on humidity in the air and the condition of your Auto AC System. When running the car at idle to check the Freon level it is a good idea to have a water hose handy and spray water on the Auto AC System condenser. The condenser is located in front of the radiator.
For vehicles currently running with Freon R-134a only
Outside—–low side——-High side——Center vent temp
60 F —–28-38 psi—-130-190 psi —-44-46 F
70 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-44-48 F
80 F ——30-40 psi —190-220 psi —-43-48 F
90 F ——35-40 psi —190-225 psi —-44-50 F
100 F —–40-50 psi —200-250 psi —-52-60 F
110 F —–50-60 psi —250-300 psi —-68-74 F
120 F —–55-65 psi —320-350 psi —-70-75 F
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You can also use this good rule of thumb with R134a, run fan on High with all windows open and engine at 1500 rpm. High side pressure in PSI should be about 2.2 to 2.5 times outside air temperature in degrees F. Example if it’s 90 degrees F, high side should be no higher than 225PSI
Above is a useful trouble shooting chart for an Auto AC System currently running on Freon R-134a
Trouble shooting
Low Compressor Discharge Pressure
1. Leak in Auto AC System
2. Defective expansion valve
3. Suction valve closed
4. Freon shortage
5. Plugged receiver drier
6. Compressor suction valve leaking
7. Bad reed valves in compressor
Repair
1. Repair leak in Auto AC System
2. Replace valve
3. Open valve
4. Add Freon
5. Replace drier
6. Replace valve
7. Replace reed valves
High Compressor Discharge Pressure
1.Air in Auto AC System
2. Clogged condenser
3. Discharge valve closed
4. Overcharged system
5. Insufficient condenser air
6. Loose fan belt
7. Condenser not centered on fan or too far from radiator
Repair
1. Recharge Auto AC System
2. Clean condenser
3. Open valve
4. Remove some refrigerant
5. Install large fan
6. Tighten fan belt
7. Center and check distance
Low Suction Pressure
1. Refrigerant shortage in Auto AC System
2. Worn compressor piston
3. Compressor head gasket leaking
4. Kinked or flattened hose
5. Compressor suction valve leaking
6. Moisture in system
7. Trash in expansion valve or screen
Repair
1. Add refrigerant to Auto AC System
2. Replace compressor
3. Replace head gasket
4. Replace hose
5. Change valve plate
6. Replace drier
7. Replace drier
High Suction Pressure
1. Loose expansion valve on Auto AC System
2. Overcharged system
3. Expansion valve stuck open
4. Compressor reed valves
5. Leaking head gasket on compressor
Repair
1. Tighten valve on auto AC System
2. Remove some refrigerant
3. Replace expansion valve
4. Replace reed valves
5. Replace head gasket
Compressor Not Working
1. Broken belt that operates Auto AC System
2. Broken clutch wire or no 12v power
3. Broken compressor piston
4. Bad thermostat
5. Bad clutch coil
6. Low Refrigerant – low pressure switch has cut off clutch power
Repair
1. Replace belt on Auto AC System
2. Repair wire or check for power
3. Replace compressor
4. Replace thermostat
5. Replace clutch coil
6. Add refrigerant
Evaporator Not Cooling
1. Frozen coil, switch set too highon Auto AC System
2. Drive belt slipping
3. Hot air leaks into car
4. Plugged receiver drier
5. Capillary tube broken
6. Shortage of refrigerant
7. High head pressure
8. Low suction pressure
9. High suction pressure
10. Defective expansion valve
11. Frozen expansion valve
Repair
1. Turn thermostat switch back on Auto AC System
2. Tighten belt
3. Check for holes or open vents
4. Replace drier
5. Replace expansion valve
6. Add refrigerant
7. See problem #2
8. See problem #3
9. See problem #4
10. Replace expansion valve
11. Evacuate and replace drier
Frozen Evaporator Coil
1. Faulty thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Thermostat not set properly
3. Insufficient evaporator air
Repair
1. Replace thermostat on Auto AC System
2. Set to driving condition
3. Check for excessive duct hose length, kink or bend.
If you can’t get your Auto AC System to turn on then use this chart to determine if you are low on Freon. Remember that this is a general char and will vary for different makes and model cars and refrigeration units
If you own a late model car made somewhere on earth, you can bet it probably has a serpentine belt. A serpentine belt is a single ribbed belt that drives all the accessories, A/C, Power Steering, alternator and various other pumps and accessories with just one belt. They should require no maintenance unlike belts on older models called the V-Belt that needed periodic adjusting. Even though the serpentine belt requires no maintenance or adjustments as long as it is in good condition they do need to be inspected often to you replace the belt before it reaches the end of its life and leaves you dead on the road. If it starts to go bad, you can replace your serpentine belt at a time of your choosing and not when the belt decides for you. When a serpentine belt brakes, you lose everything, cooling, ac and alternator, you do not want to let this happen. Checking ribbed drive belts at every oil change, and the position of the self-adjusting mechanism indicator, will insure you catch a bad belt long before it snaps.
The backside of the serpentine drive belt, or the smooth side, usually drives the water pump. If the serpentine belt gets oil soaked or glazed, it will slip and not provide the proper circulation to keep the engine cool. And if there is oil on the serpentine belt, it’s coming from somewhere so you will need to find out where and fix it before putting on a new serpentine drive belt. We suggest calling Pops Auto Electric for help, but do it yourselfer read on.
Look for tears or abrasions. If you see any it means the serpentine drive belt is rubbing a pulley flange or bolt as it winds it way around. This will happen more often as the drive belt gets older. If this happens you may need to file a pulley flange smooth or bend something out of the way. We again recommend a qualified mechanic, for filing engine parts can cause permanent damage if not done correctly.
Also look for pinholes and/or bumps. If you see any it means dirt and debris is getting in between the serpentine drive belt and the pulleys. Turn the belt around and see if there are chunks of the ribs missing. You can crank the engine to expose sections of belt as you inspect. A few, small widely spaced chunks are okay, But if there are many and/or close together, replace the serpentine drive belt. We cannot emphasize strongly enough that inspecting the belt in this manor can endanger your fingers, hundreds of fingers are lost each year but not taking proper safety precautions, do not touch the belt when moving, the groves will grip your fingers and could cause irreparable damage to your person. Hairline cracks are normal, but if they go into the backing, or flat side, of the serpentine drive belt you will need to replace it.
A good rule of thumb for serpentine drive belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart, all around the belt, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be considered as indicative that the belt needs changing. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about halfway through its usable life. Remember, using a qualified auto mechanic shop like Pops Auto Electric in Orlando Florida is inexpensive compared to the expense of replacing engine parts and worse case fingers.
Insulation of the Serpentine belt in Your Automobile
Check the tensioner first
A “good” tensioner arm should exhibit just a slight vibration with about 1/32 in. or less of arm movement. And the belt should run smoothly with no visible vibration. If the tensioner arm exhibits a jerky vibrating motion, the belt vibrates, or the tensioning arm moves 1/4 in., the tensioner is bad.
If your tensioner is bad and it’s one of the more difficult styles to replace, you won’t want to waste your time changing the belt. The shop would just have to remove the belt again to replace the tensioner. So check the tensioner first with these three tests and if it looks like it could be bad contact Pops Auto Electric in Central Florida or a qualified auto repair shop for verification.
The first test is a visual inspection with the engine running to assess the dampening feature of the tensioner. Pop the hood, start the engine and turn on the AC. Then shine a light on the belt tensioner and observe the tensioner arm roller for excessive movement (Photo 1). If it passes the visual test, move on to the “crank” test (Photo 2). The tensioner arm should rotate smoothly during crank and release with no binding. If the travel isn’t smooth, replace the entire tensioner. Next, check the condition of the tensioner arm pulley/roller (Photo 3). If the pulley or roller exhibits any roughness, binding or noise, that is also cause to replace the entire tensioner.
Many tensioners are readily accessible and attach to the engine with a single bolt. To replace that style, simply remove the belt and then the retaining bolt. Pull off the old tensioner, noting the location of the locking pin on the back. Then slide the new unit into place, lining up the locking pin with the hole in the engine. Hand-tighten the bolt and then tighten it with a torque wrench to the factory specifications shown in your shop manual.
How to tell if you need a new serpentine belt
Press the gauge into a belt groove. As long as the gauge sits above the ribs, the belt is good. If it slides down so it’s even with the rib, the belt is worn and must be replaced.
First-generation serpentine belts were made from a nitrile compound that cracked with use. If your belt has cracks in three or more adjacent ribs within a 1-in. span, or has four or more cracks per inch on a single rib, it’s time to replace it. You also need a new belt if you notice any of these conditions: chunks missing from the rib area, torn or frayed fabric, glazing on the belt’s back side or debris trapped in the ribs.
Starting with the 2000 models, carmakers switched from nitrile to ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) belts. EPDM belts last much longer and don’t crack or lose chunks the way nitrile belts do. But they do wear, and that wear is much harder to detect. You can measure EPDM belt wear with a gauge or a smartphone app. Both products are available for free from Gates Corp. (go to gatesprograms.com/beltwear and click on either tool).
In most cases, you’ll want to use the plastic gauge to measure your belt, as shown above. However, if you have a smartphone and enough maneuvering room to shoot a close-up photo (engine off), let technology do the work for you. The app works by analyzing the width of the ribs compared with the width of the grooves.
Always buy premium belts instead of economy grade — you’ll get almost twice the mileage.
The right tools make it a do-it-yourself project
Examine the decal that shows the belt routing. If yours doesn’t have one, draw one before you start the job.
You can replace a serpentine belt with ordinary hand tools. But we don’t recommend it. The spaces are often tight and the belt-driven devices difficult to reach. Using a serpentine belt tool to loosen the tensioner and a belt placement tool to position the belt, we completed the entire job in less than 15 minutes, without breaking a sweat (or a knuckle). The serpentine belt tool comes with an assortment of sockets, making it the perfect choice for all the cars in your family. The two extension bars can be configured to reach the tensioner at the proper angle, and the extra-long handle provides maximum leverage so you can release the pressure easily. The belt placement tool allowed us to remove and properly place the new belt without reaching down into the pulley area.
Note: If your car requires the removal of an engine mount in order to remove the serpentine belt, or the belt’s just nearly impossible to get at, we recommend you leave the job to a professional.
Want to make this problem go away with one simple phone call?
Auto AC Basics; How does Auto AC Work, How do I Know if all is Well?
Summer is around the corner, is your auto AC working properly? The first thing to understand about auto AC basics, before attempting “easy fixes” from the retail giants, is how auto AC works, and how you might be able to fix or improve Auto AC performance.
Part 1: Understanding Auto AC Basics; Car Air Conditioning
It is important to realize that auto AC basics is based on a refrigerator in a different layout. It’s designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, the following explanations of auto AC should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be. This should also help you work with the right pieces if fixing it yourself or it will help you to talk intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
•Compressor:
This compresses is another basic part of auto AC basics and circulates the refrigerant in the system of the auto AC •Refrigerant: On modern cars, this is usually a substance called R-134a, while older cars have r-12 Freon in the auto AC, which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, Freon also requires a license to handle. The refrigerant carries the heat.
•Condenser:
The condenser is part of auto AC basics that changes the phase of the refrigerant from gas to liquid and expels heat removed from the car through the auto AC.
•Expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles):
This part of auto AC basics is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to simultaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it within the auto AC. •Evaporator: This transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, which is a vital part of the auto AC in cooling your car.
•Receiver/dryer: This functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants from the auto AC system. Understand the air conditioning process of you auto AC is much the same as any refrigerant process. In a nutshell, the compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant in the auto AC system is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the “latent heat of vaporization”). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve in the auto AC system to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car’s blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle within the auto AC again and again.
Part 2 of Auto AC Basics: Fixing the auto AC
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out of your auto AC (meaning there’s nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling the auto AC system apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there’s a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Another part of auto AC basics; find the low-side valve for the auto AC and with a special gauge check the PSI level.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Do not use anything else to poke in the auto AC valve to see if coolant will come out, this is illegal and one of the auto AC basics. It’s called venting. Make sure the compressor is turning.
•Start the car, turn on the auto AC and look under the hood. The auto AC compressor is generally a pump-like thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire, this is part of auto AC basics and will be similar on every car. The pulley on the front of the auto AC compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged.
•If the auto AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor’s clutch is not engaging, you have run into one of the auto AC basics. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem (see Pops Auto Electric on Auto Electric Repair), a broken auto AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn’t enough refrigerant in the auto AC system). Look for other things that can go wrong. The other sorts of problems that the auto AC might be experiencing include: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure in the auto AC and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, complete with instructions.
VERY IMPORTANT
•Auto AC basics; do not overfill the auto AC coolant! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will not improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance in real-time as it adds refrigerant. When the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant from the auto AC until the performance peaks again.
Tips
•Auto AC basics; if you suspect bad wiring, most compressors have a wire leading to the electric clutch. Find the connector in the middle of that wire, and unplug it. Take a length of wire and run it from the compressor’s wire to the plus (+) side of your battery. If you hear a loud CLACK, the electric clutch for the auto AC is fine and you should check the car’s wiring and fuses. If you get nothing, the electric clutch is bad and the auto AC compressor will have to be replaced. Ideally, if you can do this test while the car is running, you can see if the hub spins. Take care to keep fingers and loose clothes away from moving pulleys and belts. That would rule out an auto AC clutch that actuates properly but then slips so badly it won’t generate pressure.
•Auto AC basics 2; the auto AC system will have a light oil in it. •If your car has an auto AC, leak even though the drain pipe is clean, some water may have entered the AC system during a drive through rain.
•Another possible replacement refrigerant is HC12a which is used quite a bit more in Europe. This is another one of the auto AC basics as It performs better than R-134a or R12. It is more flammable. HC12a is illegal in many U.S. states, including Arkansas, Arizona, Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Iowa, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Washington, Wisconsin, and the District of Columbia. HC12a has a lesser environmental impact than R12 or R134a, but since HC12a contains hydrocarbons, it could contribute to volatile organic compound (VOC) emissions. This substance must be ordered on the Internet as local shops do not seem to stock it. The issue is that shops will not work on a car that has other refrigerants in it. Special equipment is needed for each type of refrigerant’s recovery. Standard R12 or R134a is a safer choice for any auto AC system.
•Sometimes the problem is not always about the refrigerant, or any of the auto AC basics. There may be a problem with heat radiation from nearby engine which is very hot and decrease the AC efficiency and performance. You can try to wrap / isolate the cold auto AC pipe near the engine to stop engine heat radiation from affecting the pipe and increase auto ac performance overall. Seem complicated, we can help. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix the auto AC basics and the more critical problems as well. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem with auto AC basics, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible.
Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
Pops Auto Electric of Orlando Florida
407-857-8579
If you feel you have the expertise to continue repairing your auto AC basics yourself; we do feel we must list the following warnings:
Warnings
•You may not find a repair facility that will simply not top off the auto AC basics system, if they suspect that you need to repair a leak first. If you repaired the leaks and failed components yourself, it is legal to recharge the auto AC basics system with 134 without a license, but not R-12. However, getting a license to handle R-12 is easy online, and runs about $20.)
•Look out for moving fan blades and fan belts!
•If you have any reason to suspect that your auto AC refrigerant has leaked out completely (the auto AC DIY pressure gauge you bought at the parts store reads 0 psi; the compressor won’t engage because it may be sensing no pressure in the system; you checked the gauge and have no PSI level), then you are best off taking it to a professional unless you are familiar with what you are doing. As a general rule of thumb, you are probably not familiar enough if you are reading this article. The reason for this is that a completely depleted auto AC basics refrigerant system has no pressure to keep air and moisture from coming in through wherever the refrigerant leaked out. Air and moisture are possibly the two biggest enemies of an auto AC system. The ways in which they can do harm are outside the scope of this article, but suffice it to say that it is not okay to have a significant amount of either air or moisture in the auto AC lines. The receiver/dryer unit must be replaced in a case like this as you can almost guarantee that it has absorbed enough moisture to be completely useless, and before refilling the system it must be evacuated (pulling a vacuum on the system, effectively removing nearly all air and moisture from inside) with the proper equipment, which few auto AC Dyers are likely to have access or knowledge to use. Let a professional handle it, and you may get away with paying for a fixed leak and an evacuate/recharge of the auto AC system. Try to fix the auto AC yourself, and a few months down the road you might wind up having to pay for the same evacuate/recharge service, plus replacement of a seized compressor, as well as a new condenser, evaporator, and expansion valve/orifice tube because the compressor sent shards of metal throughout the entire auto AC basics system when the compressor died.
•HC12 and R-134A are non-flammable auto AC fluids at ambient temperatures and atmospheric pressure, but both may combust at high pressure and temperature under certain conditions (in contact with certain reactive metals), again, part of auto AC basics. Both also displace oxygen, so do not release a lot of the gas in a small, non-vented area under penalty of asphyxiation.
•Stay away from major leaks of refrigerant. As it vents the auto AC system, it will get cold enough to freeze your skin, resulting in frostbite, this is another of the auto AC basics. •Never connect auto AC refrigerant cans, oil or leak-detector cans to the “high pressure side” of the system, part of auto AC basics. This is often marked with H or HIGH, or a red connector cap. Cans can explode, and that would hurt. •Checking for refrigerant leaking from the auto AC system by poking something in the fitting and looking for venting may be illegal if it releases refrigerant into the atmosphere. (Please don’t do this with R-12 especially!) While it is not illegal to top off a leaking system, you must check your local regulations, as in some cases there is a state or local law against it, due to the possible emissions. Venting auto AC refrigerant, even R-134a, is illegal in the United States, so act accordingly, this is law regarding auto AC basics. •Be extremely cautious about converting your old R-12 auto AC system to R-134a. The R-134a conversion kits sold at Auto Parts stores and even Walmart, are called “Black Death Kits” by some auto AC repairmen. Frequently part of auto AC basics, the new R-134a refrigerant will not circulate the R-12 oil and you will burn up your compressor. The R-12 mineral oil has chlorine contaminants that will destroy the R-134a PAG or POE special oil. The only way to reliably convert auto AC from R-12 to R-134a is to remove the compressor and flush out all the old oil with the new type of oil; then replace the old Receiver-Dryer or Accumulator with a new one; then flush out all the lines, the evaporator, and the auto AC condenser with special cleaner then vacuum to a steady vacuum; and finally charge with 70-80%, (by weight) of the original R-12 weight, with R-134a; and expect poorer cooling ability. It is much easier to keep the old R-12 auto AC system running with R-12 that is readily available via eBay. You must have a license to buy and sell R-12, again auto AC basics.
◦Note that the above warning is controversial. Some repairmen claim to have converted hundreds of vehicles from R-12 to R134a without any problems or issues or failures after conversion.
Seem complicated, we can help with all the auto AC basics and beyond. For many years Pops Auto Electric in Orlando has been the expert dealers bring their problem auto AC systems to fix. These dealers and shops know that Pops Auto Electric will not only fix the problem, but do it as efficiently and inexpensively as possible. Pops Auto Electric located at the corner of Orange and Holden have all the latest in auto AC repair equipment, you can’t find a more competent or honest shop.
back side of the engine, beneath the intake manifold, making access difficult from above. The best method to remove the old filter is to use a “cup type” oil filter wrench. Once you have this wrench, it fits the flutes on the end of the filter, use an extension of appropriate length, and a ratchet handle; this assembly is wormed down through the very narrow space between intake manifold and firewall and onto the filter.
When doing an oil change for Honda Civic the oil drain plug can be a source of problems. The stock plug uses an aluminum crush washer to seal against leaks, which must be torqued fairly tightly (the same system is used on the manual transmission fill and drain plugs). Contrary to occasional practice, the washer should never be reused except as a temporary measure in an emergency, as it then requires even more torque to properly seal. Given the relatively high torque needed to properly seal the plug, it is not unusual for the plug to be over tightened and the threads stripped; luckily, it is usually the plug which is damaged and can be replaced, rather than the more complex process of fixing damaged threads in the oil pan. Some enterprising mechanics substitute a nylon washer, as is sometimes found on other cars, rather than the aluminum washer; the torque required for proper sealing is greatly lessened, but the nylon has a tendency to soften when hot and creep out from under the plug, so that leaks develop over time, particularly in warmer temperatures. 
One possible solution is to install one of the oil drain valves, available either from Fumoto or Fram. These take the place of the stock drain plug, by threading into the oil pan, and utilize a valve which is turned by hand to drain the engine oil. While tapping the drain hole and installing a larger plug, or installing a self-tapping plug are acceptable, they are not the recommended solution, as these types of plugs tend develop leaks over a short period of time. Also, the metal shavings created by the tap may become suspended in the remaining oil, causing premature engine wear. The proper repair, if the threads for the drain plug in the oil pan become stripped, is to replace the engine oil pan altogether. Simply stated, oil change for Honda Civic is no easy task, it can cause serious damage to the engine if preformed improperly and extra experience to repair the damage you have done. Complications can arise from oil changes preformed by a previous owner, in the best case situation; you need specialized tools and the knowledge that only comes from years of experience.
